Hi Jonathan,
Which product should I use for indoor control of stink bugs now? This is the 2nd year of infestation and we have not treated outdoors or indoors.I have been picking the stink bugs up by hand to remove them from inside. Thank you for any help.
If you review our STINKBUG CONTROL ARTICLE, you'll see we list many products for use indoors. The most common product is the BAYGON AEROSOL; I like the PT-PHANTOM since it goes on "dry" and is completely odorless. But as explained in our article, if you don't treat the outside with the CYPERMETHRIN this spring when they leave, they will certainly come back again next fall. Stink bugs will make your home their home if you let them have their way and since your problem is seemingly getting worse, a good outside treatment is definitely needed to solve the infestation.
Here are direct links to the items listed above:
http://www.bugspray.com/article/stinkbug.html
http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page1007.html
http://www.bugspray.com/item/phantom_aerosol.html
http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page1006.html
We also have a complete organic solution posted here:
http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/stink-bugs/non-toxic-stinkbug-control.html
jonathan
Filed under stink bugs by 
Dear Sir/Madam,
I was looking at your website in order to buy a product that will help me scare away a sparrow at the entrance to my apartment. There is a light above our front door on which a sparrow rests regularly. The sparrow seems pretty bold and comes back regularly even after we shoo it away. It has not started nesting but i is creating a lot of mess right at our entrance.
Which product would you most recommend to disuade the sparrow from resting on the light.
i looked at ITEM # 743132 (gel) but was not sure if it could be used on top of a light bulb (with shade) as it might already be a little hot
Any advise would be really helpful.
Sparrows and other birds will many times find something attractive under an overhang, roof or other protected section of a structure like a house. These locations allow them to feel safe and many times "look over" the surrounding terrain. They don't necessarily want to use the location for a nest but regardless, their droppings are messy and not acceptable. The thing to understand here is that birds are creatures of habit and once they form the pattern of using something on a daily basis, they'll usually stick to this regime until there is good enough reason to change.
To deter or repel unwanted birds like your sparrow will require one or more of the devices located on our BIRD CONTROL page. There are several that could do the job and even though the BIRD GEL would work, it's probably too messy for the location and in my opinion, not the best option. Alternatively, the BIRD DISCS or BIRD TAPE would be better suited. Both are easy to install and easy to remove. And though neither are what you'd like to have hanging by your front door for any length of time, in most cases you won't need to have them there long. Usually there is an immediate response after the installation and the sparrow or sparrows that were coming around will learn to go elsewhere. Once you notice no bird activity, allow the device to remain in place for another week at which time you can remove it and save it should they return.
Here are links to the items mentioned above:
http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page80.html#174
http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page81.html
http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page1665.html
jonathan www.bugspray.com 1-800-877-7290Filed under sparrows by
Hello,
I am having a problem with silverfish. I read all your info and realize I probably have a bigger issue than I know. That being said, the main concentration seems to be in the converted upstairs area of this 80 yo house I live in. It is surrounded on two sides by attic. I keep finding them on my bed, which lies directly under my light fixture, and I find dead ones in the glass light shade. Im sure that is the biggest point of entry at this point. I was looking at the NiBan product you offer. It seems like the best one for my issue. I have a couple questions though if you dont mind. First, how would be the best way to apply this product? If you have a "spreader" of some kind that you can recommend that would be a huge help. Also, do I need to use a barrier spray for the baseboard areas. small holes in the walls, like for cable tv, etc. ? Any help in this matter, or suggestions would be really great. I have tried to find a local pest control agent to do this for me, but no one wants to do this job, they all want to sign me up for a long term contract then they say they cant guarantee the silverfish thing. What good is that?? lol Thanks again for any help.
As explained in our SILVERFISH CONTROL ARTICLE, most silverfish problems start just outside the home underneath siding and roof shingles. From there some will forage into the home. If conditions are right, they'll start living in attic spaces and from there, find their way into living spaces. Based on the limited information you've provided, I believe this is happening at your house.
To treat such a problem, it's important to either establish a barrier through which they cannot enter or treat the nest zone. At this point I'm not sure if this "nest zone" is the attic or the outside siding/shingles. If I was to service the home, I would want to treat both. This would insure I got them where it matters. That being said, it's not easy treating up under shingles but many times this is a key nest site. So how can you stop them if they're living in areas you can't treat?
For such situations, the DRIONE DUST is ideal. It's long lasting and extremely irritating to silverfish. A good attic dusting combined with a "points of entry" dusting would stop them from entering for sure and create a good "buffer" zone with none nesting. This would go a long way for preventing them from getting into your living areas. If you did a thorough treatment you could effectively shut them out in one fell swoop. But it will mean having to identify all routes of entry. The light fixture directly above the bed sounds like a key spot but in any one home there will be many such entry points. Electric light fixtures, electric outlets, molding, door frames and any crack or crevice are all routes of entry so be sure to dust them all.
Lastly, I don't think the NIBAN FG would be a good option for your problem. As a bait, it will work on foraging silverfish that find it. But since you're mostly seeing them in your bed I don't see how you could effectively use it. For the living area, I'd recommend some SILVERFISH TRAPS and maybe some PHANTOM AEROSOL for your barrier treatment. This aerosol is odorless, dry to the touch even after spraying and long lasting. It's ideal for living areas as you can't tell it's been applied and handles most any pest you might expect to get inside.
Here are direct links to the information and products mentioned above:
http://www.bugspray.com/articles98/silverfish.html
http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page226.html
http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page228.html
http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page658.html
http://www.bugspray.com/item/phantom_aerosol.html
If you still have questions, give us a call on our toll free 1-800-877-7290 but I think the above directions are what you need to follow for a sure fire silverfish control program to work.
jonathan
Filed under silverfish by
My rabbit that lives at our house is eating our ground cover. Will your product kill the rabbit or just stop it from eating the ground cover? Thanks for advicing.
We've got two rabbit repellents that can be used safely in the yard. Neither will hurt or injure any animal that feeds on treated plants and people can walk safely over the treated area. Basically these products are bad tasting agents and because of their unique design are able to "hold up" well to weathering. This makes them well suited to be used as a repellent. Compared to many other commercially available products, either will last much longer as well.
For small areas, a good choice is the ROPEL LIQUID. This product is simply sprayed on plants you want to safeguard. Once dry, the plant will have a bad taste to deer, rabbit, wood chuck or any browsing animal. For larger areas, the DEER AND RABBIT AWAY is better suited. Available in a highly concentrated form, this material has proven to work well at stopping animals from browsing on any plant which is sprayed.
Here are direct links to the products listed above:
http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page511.html
http://www.bugspray.com/item/745159.html
jonathan
Filed under rabbits by
Jonathan,
Sigh. Carpet beetles. I think my husband and I attract every hard to kill bug on the planet…a few years ago when we lived in a NYC apartment we had bedbugs and that was a horrible experience and the other day I discovered carpet beetles have been eating my husband's wool clothes (suits, sweaters, etc.)
I sent the wool rug that was under our bed out for cleaning last Tuesday, but unfortunately we keep seeing carpet beetles – about one a day – on our walls, floors, etc. I thought exclusively in the master bedroom but my husband found one today on the stairwell. Not sure why these "all of the sudden" creeped up on us – we have had no beetles or bugs until about two months ago (I didn't know what they were) and then we figured it out once we found the holes in the clothes.
I bought some pheromone traps to try to get rid of the adults, but I have a few other questions.
With regard to the larvae, how do I find them? Aren't they microscopic? the carpet beetles are small enough, but it is hard for me to figure out where the infestation was (I am assuming it was the wool rug) and I feel like I am "thoroughly inspecting" clothes but not sure what I am looking for or how I can tell if there are larvae there. I have resorted to washing everything and am about to send his full compliment of wool suits and sweaters out to the dry cleaner….
Do I need to be worried about my box spring and mattress? Haven't seen any on the bed but could they be living inside the box spring or something? Do I just throw it out? What about my wood furniture?
I have two small children and am trying to do everything possible before resorting to spraying but if I have to spray, what do I get? And do I spray clothes with it or just the floor, carpets, etc.?
This is just very overwhelming and I am trying to get a handle on what the habits are of these bugs so I can figure out how to attack them (literally) and develop a plan of action.
Thanks for your help.
First, as explained in our CARPET BEETLE CONTROL ARTICLE, the traps aren't going to solve any significant problem. Do they help? Yes. But mostly as a way to monitor and learn where they are active. Given the information you've included, I'm sure the entire apartment needs to be treated. I'd focus my attention on the carpet and furniture. And though you've been hesitant to treat, I just don't think there is any other option here given the extent of the activity you've noted and the damage being done.
The good news is the treatment should be both easy to do and safe for everyone. I'd tackle the problem when everyone leaves for the day and I'd start with the MULTI-PURPOSE INSECT KILLER. We haven't added this to our article yet but it's a light aerosol that's ideal for such situations. It's even labeled for use on mattresses and other furniture so I'm sure if you did a thorough job of using it throughout the apartment, you'd get good results. The key here is to forget trying to isolate one main area or source of the problem. Instead you should try using the "shotgun" approach. By blanketing the carpet and treating all the furniture carpet beetles can utilize (especially up underneath the bottom and under the cushions), you'll successfully have in place a defense that will shut down any level of infestation.
To learn how to safely use the product, watch this video which explains in great detail how to safely handle, use and store our aerosol products. It covers most everything and as you'll learn, if you use some common sense and do the treatment when everyone is gone letting it dry for an hour or so, there is really so little product left behind that the risk to any people or pets is non existent.
http://www.youtube.com/user/usprayvideo#p/c/773A959D99256EAF/0/vhjZ77yDVWQ
Here are direct links to the information and products I mentioned and as always, if you have further questions you only need to give us a call toll free at 1-800-877-7290.
http://www.bugspray.com/articles98/carpetbeetle.html
http://www.bugspray.com/item/lice_killer.html
http://www.youtube.com/user/usprayvideo#p/c/773A959D99256EAF/0/vhjZ77yDVWQ
jonathan
Filed under carpet beetles by
i just moved to a house in the woods an yesterday i discovered about 10 holes/tunnels close to my house …i don't know whats making these holes? i did see chipmucks in my yard…could that be them making holes??? theres no dirt piles, just round holes that seem to go into the ground a good foot ot more…what should i use to stop whatever is doing this???
Small holes or tunnel activity in the yard is probably the result of some small animal. Though one might think of MOLES initially, they tend to make tunnels but if any light gets inside the tunnel, they close it up. Since you're seeing open holes that appear to be used, I don't think moles are involved. It is possible that the tunnels were originally made by moles but several animals like to take advantage of abandoned mole tunnels including SHREWS, CHIPMUNKS and VOLES.
One cannot rule out the possibility that you have some NORWAY RATS burrowing, but based on you stating you're in the country, I think we can rule them out. And if it were chipmunks, I'm sure you'd be seeing them throughout the day. If not all day, certainly early morning for several hours. They're active most any morning and not afraid to be out and about so you'd be seeing them for sure. Since it doesn't sound like you've seen any evidence of any animal, I'm thinking it's most likely a vole.
If you take some time to read our article on VOLE CONTROL, you'll learn these guys can cover lots of ground. They typically make tunnels like moles but will have lots of exit/entrance holes that can be found throughout the yard. They love plants but will feed on bird seed too and many times live under or close to bird feeders. And though they're active anytime, they don't like to be out in the open so they're hard to sight. Even when they emerge on the surface of the lawn they don't linger. In most cases they're gone in 1-3 seconds so it's hard to catch them unless you know what you're looking for.
At this point I would say the best approach would be to use some of the WHOLE CONTROL REPELLENT. This bad tasting deterrent will cause them to dig elsewhere and in most cases, does a good job of keeping them off your property. If you note some other animal like chipmunks using any of these burrows, you can then opt for some of the items we have listed in our CHIPMUNK CONTROL article. But for now, the Whole Control would be your best option. I just know voles are extra active in the spring and what you describe fits them pretty well. If it's them, the repellent approach will do a good job and should get them to clear out of the yard.
Here are direct links to all the information I posted above:
http://www.bugspray.com/articles98/moles.html
http://www.bugspray.com/article/shrews.html
http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page398.html
http://www.bugspray.com/article/voles.html
http://www.bugspray.com/article/rats.html
Give us a call if you have any other questions or concerns. Our toll free is 1-800-877-7290.
jonathan
Filed under holes tunnels by
HELLO,
I WOULD LIKE TO KNOW IF IT IS SAFE TO TREAT YOUR YARD WITH THE DELTA GAURD GRANULES AND THE CYFLUTHRIN IF YOU HAVE A DOG THAT GOES IN THE YARD.
THANKS,
M.
When used properly, neither the DELTAGUARD or the CYFLUTHRIN pose any hazard to people or pets. Remember the granules will be dispersed ever so lightly over the area and in fact, should barely be detectable. We do recommend keeping dogs and other pets away from the area during the treatment and ideally one day following the application and "watering in" phase. We have more safety guidelines explained in our GRANULE SAFETY VIDEO posted here:
Filed under safety concerns by
Jonathan,
My husband and I moved into a home at the end of August in in October we found springtails all around the exterior of our home. They have not entered our home to my knowledge. We live in CT so we have been going through a funny weather pattern right now. We've had 2 snowstorms this week and for each one I have seen a mass of springstails in the snow. They are not close to our home at this point, but I am nervous they will get closer as spring approaches. We were able to kill the nest in October. My husband set it on fire. I followed the population as far as I could into the woods, but I was unable to find the nest today. I would like to find it before spring comes. Do you have any advice to finding the nest in the woods? Please let me know. Thank you for your help.
If you read through our online SPRINGTAIL CONTROL ARTICLE, you'll learn that springtails live in the soil and that they target moist, nutrient rich dirt. This type of soil can readily be found around most any home that fertilizes or irrigates and many things the average homeowner does will actually "feed" the local springtail population. In addition to watering the lawn, pinestraw islands, wood chips and compost piles all tend to attract springtails as does mulching your grass clippings.
I'm making this point to emphasize that most dirt has nutrients from which springtails can sustain themselves. And if you were somehow able to look through the dirt, say down a depth of 10 feet or so, you would find them dispersed all around your yard. There might be more at a certain "depth" but there is no one location they'll want to stay; they will readily move up and down in the soil column depending on local water supplies and the nutrient content of the soil where they're living. As the soil gets more moist, they tend to "rise to the top" to avoid drowning. And this will commonly happen following a big rain or snow.
What this all means is that what you are seeing is really only a drop in the bucket compared to the population of springtails that undoubtedly living on and around your property. And though your effort to "kill the nest" is valiant, by all measures it's a doomed approach to springtail control. First, there really isn't a "nest" anywhere. As explained above, springtails will be found dispersed throughout nutrient rich soil and though you might come upon a thick population here and there, the migrating adults that surface are not the crux of the problem and certainly do not represent a nest. In most cases, they're just fleeing for their lives the very water they need to survive. But many soil living animals have been flooded out up and down the east coast for the past 6-10 months and what you're seeing now is an all too familiar scene being played out anywhere it's been wet and rainy here along the East coast.
So what should you do? As you know, springtails can be a major problem once they start surfacing in your home. But if you hold them off before they get to the house, chances are good that you'll keep them at bay. As explained in our PREVENTIVE PEST CONTROL article, the main reason people get any invasive pest in the first place is because they don't take a little time to treat the yard on a regular basis. This leads to wide range of insects getting established out in the turf and from there, it's only a matter of time before some move into the home. This is how 99% of the springtail problems form along with many other pest problems like ants, termites, millipedes, centipedes, earwigs just to name a few.
So at this point I would give up the "torch" and opt for some lawn granules. The CYFLUTHRIN GRANULES applied 2-3 times a year will help a lot. As they dissipate down into the soil, they'll kill off all the springtail activity where applied. In the end, this is the best approach to most all insect control and with springtails, a little bit of preventive treatment goes a long way. Oh, and a really good time to apply them is in late winter/early spring. This is because as the snow melts, it will leech the active ingredients down into the soil so it can have the biggest impact on pests like springtails. Treat now, again during the summer and then again in the fall and you should be able to keep the yard pest free without burning down your house!
jonathan
Links for this post:
Filed under springtails by
Hi Jonathan,
We have had these crickets now for three summers. They seem to breed from about august thru about october or november. I had one exterminating company here that got rid of them that first summer by fogging them. They have since gone out of business and I hired terminex who told me that fogging is illegal. They have treated the basement now for 2 summers and the problem still persists. They do come back when i call that i see the crickets, and they come 4 times a year. But i want them gone!! My kids will not play in the basement anymore and it is such shame it is a great play area. Are the products you sell the same items that terminex is using? They spray the baseboards, outlets, ceiling, and outer perimeter of our house, and the problem is still occurring. Please let me know what the best thing to do at this point is. I would say this is not light to moderate but rather more serious. Thank you.
S.
Camelback crickets can be a persistent and stubborn pest to control. The main reason is they like to live out of sight, away from people and light, and therefore the most obvious locations to treat are not usually all the important when trying to solve the problem. Additionally, they will many times live without anyone knowing in the home. This happens because during t3h warm months, they're content to reside hidden and have no need to come out and forage. But when food is limited or when it's cold, they'll have to come into living areas for food and heat and this is when conflict can arise.
The treatments described by you above which have been done indicate that some effort has been put forth to try and control the problem. However, it appears that these treatments have really only addressed routes of entry and not main nest locations. If you wish to be rid of this pest once and for all, a more direct approach will be needed.
As explained in our CAMELBACK CRICKET CONTROL ARTICLE, this insect likes to live where it is dark, out of sight, and yet where both food and safe harborage can be acquired. The most common locations where this exists in the home are basements and crawlspaces. My guess is that you have some location which is being overlooked where they are thriving. It could be in a crawl space. It could be behind a finished wall of the basement. It could even be in a drop down ceiling of the basement. The point is you really need to find the main nest site if you want to get rid of them once and for all.
And after a good inspection if you're able to find some locations that have been overlooked, getting some of our products to treat the area could definitely help. We do in fact sell the same products professional pest control companies use so what we're selling isn't what you'd find on the shelves at your local hardware store. And they do work really well. But as good as they work, the key is getting them where they need to be. Do that and you can solve any problem.
As for which one to use? I would say either the DELTAMETHRIN DUST or the NIBAN BAIT. The dust would provide long term control and if you have a big large area to cover which you don't want to get "into", like a crawl space, it would be well suited for the job and definitely the best choice compared to the Niban. It's also real good for treating wall voids. But for the living areas, the Niban is well suited since it's discrete and can be hidden when applied. I also suggest setting up some CRICKET TRAPS.
Outside the liquid ESFENVALERATE is the better choice but in my experience, camelback crickets are almost always inside so outside treatments should be done if you're seeing them out there. But if the problem is inside, focus your attention where it matters and you'll stand a better chance of success.
Here are links to the pages mentioned above:
http://www.bugspray.com/articles98/camelcrickets.html
http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page427.html
http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page424.html
http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page1286.html
http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page422.html
Give us a call on our toll free 1-800-877-7290 if you have further questions or ideas on how to treat this problem. I'm sure with our technical support and the right products you'll be able to get a satisfactory resolution to this cricket problem.
jonathan
Filed under camelback crickets by
Dear Sir,
Terminix has been in our home five times and treated five times. We are now finding adult carpet beetles. We only found one prior to the introduction of a professional. We have finally gotten out of our contract with Terminix. I have wrapped a large,expensive chair in a plastic movers bag, and as I suspected, there are adult beetles in the bag. The chair and sofa were very expensive-can they be treated effectively, or is it of the best interest of our home to dispose of them? We have also found an infestation in a new refrigerator that we recently paid off. Do we need to throw that out too? I am just distraught, sir, tell me what I can do, please.
Respectfully yours, L.B.
I'm not sure if they told you what to expect following treatments but seeing some adults hatching a month or so after you spray is entirely common. As our CARPET BEETLE CONTROL ARTICLE explains, since we're not able to kill the third stage which is the insect pupae casing, expect them to be hatching for 1-3 months following your initial spraying. But if you lay down a good RESIDUAL and growth regulator like th NYLAR, you should be stopping the cycle so eventually all activity will stop.
At this point I would make sure you have in place a good liquid treatment on the flooring where you're seeing activity. For areas like the motor housing of a refrigerator, spraying with a liquid is sometimes not suggested being that this is an electrical environment. For these areas use a product like DELTAMETHRIN DUST is better suited. It will last a good long time and goes on dry so it won't make a mess. It's also ideal for up under furniture, where the springs are located, as this is a prime location for larvae and adult carpet beetles to nest.
I also suggest you keep on hand a can of PT-CYKICK. This odorless aerosol is handy to have for spot treating any place you may have missed which is observed to have activity at a later time. Cykick can be applied to moldings, furniture and is easy to use since it's in a can ready to spray.
Here are direct links to our article and product pages:
http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page469.html
http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page471.html
http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page474.html
http://www.bugspray.com/item/452821.html
http://www.bugspray.com/item/pt_cykick.html
And if you have any questions, feel free to give us a call on our toll free 1-800-877-7290.
jonathan
Filed under carpet beetles by
I think I have chipmunks (maybe 1-3, not sure) in the walls of my home. I saw some of your products but wasn't sure what would be best. I do see the burrows outside in my plantings but I can definitely hear the little guy in the north wall of my house. It's a 2-story house and sometimes I think I hear him on the second level. Any thoughts on how best to handle? We're trying to sell our house and its the one issue that will give people pause. Thanks!
This is a tough one. Though chipmunks can move inside a wall, it's something that doesn't happen much. This is probably because they aren't good climbers like squirrels, roof rats and flying squirrels. In fact, it's most likely you have one of these other "critters" and not a chipmunk at all. Other candidates include shrews, deer mice, voles and shrews. Again, most of these like to be out in the yard but some will forage inside when conditions are right. And even when they do come inside, most want out and will not linger. This means if you are hearing sounds on a regular basis in the wall, I suspect there is something else taking harborage.
As for the holes out in the yard; true, it could be from chipmunks. But again, there are many animals it could be. In general, ground nesting animals like chipmunks, gophers, moles, woodchucks and others aren't much interested in coming inside and climbing through walls. This is very much outside their usual environment. So what does like the inside of walls you ask? The most common animals include ROOF RATS and SQUIRRELS.
At this point it might sound a bit complicated but there are some easy options. The first would be do some inspection work up in the attic. Someone really needs to get up there to see if there is any visible animal activity. Look for droppings, tunnels through the insulation and anything else out of the ordinary. Roof rats and squirrels will tend to make it plain and clear when they inhabit such areas; flying squirrels are more secretive and many times don't forage around too much so they can be hard to see or detect.
Now if you do find droppings or other areas where there is clear sign of activity, it's quite possible you'll be able to handle this problem. Such sign would be a great place to set out a live trap. We have a lot of lures and in general can guide you in selecting one that should work based on the local environment. For example, are their pets in the house or do you have bird feeders? Are there nut trees close by? Variables like this will enable us to make a solid bait selection that usually will lure and catch target animals and with a little questioning, we can usually come up with a good game plan.
For now, I suggest you decide if you want to hire someone or tackle this problem yourself. At any time you can give us a call on our toll free 1-800-877-7290 and speak with a tech rep. Once we get a chance to ask a few questions we can usually come up with a solution that can help and at that point you can decide if you want to get something and start or like I mentioned above, hire a professional animal trapper to deal with the problem directly.
Here are direct links to informative articles on Roof Rats, Squirrels and Chipmunks respectively:
http://www.roof-rat-control.com
http://www.bugspray.com/article/squirrels.html
http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page398.html
jonathan
Filed under wall sound by
Hello,
I have a few questions regarding the use of indoor foggers.
How are foggers best used for interior applications?
How effective are they?
What pest are they effective against?
How is the brand you offer superior to the off the shelf brands available at your local supermarket or home improvement store?
Here are the answers to your questions:
1) How are foggers best used for interior applications?
Good question. In over 30 years of working in this industry, I've never seen anyone use them effectively for a "meaningful" pest control solution. I have seen where they can knock down existing insect populations, but in every case I've seen the target pest rebounds as if nothing was ever done. In most cases this rebounding took just days. So I guess the answer is if they're not "used" at all.
2) How effective are they?
See my answer to question 1.
3) What pest are they effective against?
Most that you will find on their label. However, it all depends on what you consider to be effective. As stated above, they will kill live, out in the open active insects. But in 99.9% of the cases what you see is inconsequential (not significant) compared to the real problem and this is true for any insect (roaches, ants, fleas, flies just to name a few). This is why whatever you are targeting will almost always rebound and be active in treated areas within days of the last treatment when foggers are the only product employed.
4) How is the brand you offer superior to the off the shelf brands available at your local supermarket or home improvement store?
What we sell are what the professionals use. In other words, companies like Terminex and Orkin don't buy their products from supermarkets; they buy them from distributors like us. And though we sell to professional companies, we also sell to businesses and homeowners that are willing to do their own pest control using the best products available. Our concept is real simple; do your own pest control and save 70-90% of what it would cost to hire a service company. This means if you're willing to do a little work, you might as well arm yourself with the best products out there. And one thing is for sure, foggers are about as opposite as the "best" there is!
So to answer your question, our products (at least 99% of them) aren't what you find at Lewes and Home Depot. In fact, they send us customers all the time since they're located on either side of our retail outlet store. Though they can help with "average" problems, many times the big box stores realize the problem their customer has is beyond the scope of their know how or their products and that we are the ones (if anyone) that can help.
In summary, if you have a pest problem, you have to decide if you will hire a service company or do the work yourself. And if the answer is "do the work myself", you might as well use what the professionals would use. And that's where we come in. For now I suggest you either read our online articles all of which are listed at www.bugspray.com to see just what the pro's would be using or give us a call on our toll free 1-800-877-7290 and I'm sure one of our tech reps will be able to help you further.
jonathan
Filed under foggers by
what type of bettle is it that makes egg, then they hatch and turn into mealworms and how many eggs does it have?
There are a lot of possible options here. In order for us to answer this question, we'll need some more information. Give us a call and be prepared to answer questions like:
1) Where are you seeing the activity?
2) Are there any adults around that might be what these worms are becoming over time? If yes, where are you seeing them?
3) Have you discovered any food with active insects in the packaging or food itself?
4) What rooms in the house are you seeing this activity?
5) Do you have any pets?
6) Do you process, cook or otherwise manufacture anything edible or with edible ingredients in the home? If yes, what kind of items?
7) Have you done any treating to try and stop this problem thus far? If yes, just what procedures have you attempted to do?
When you call, we'll ask these and probably some more questions attempting to ascertain the origin and species of the infestation currently active in your home. In most all cases, getting to know the species will be important if you wish to stop the activity. Additionally, knowing the species allows us to recommend the best procedure which we know will work based on years of experience. Though we have a lot of information on a wide range of pests posted at www.bugspray.com, there are just too many for you to browse without first narrowing the options. Give us a call and from there, I'm sure we'll be able to help. Our phone is 1-800-877-7290.
jonathan www.bugspray.comFiled under bettles by
I have bad bat smell in my attic . What is the best spray i need to use? I have sprayed it with bleach . Nothing seems to get the smell out. Thanks.
Bats and other animals that nest or forage in the attic will undoubtedly leave behind droppings and urine. This excrement will many times accumulate and become significant. If allowed to accumulate, these droppings will many times create foul odors strong enough to find their way into living areas.
To control the smell, you'll need to first gain access to the area. If the attic is open and accessible, spray it with the ODOR ELIMINATOR discussed in our ODOR CONTROL ARTICLE. This product is organic and literally breaks down the odor molecules. You won't get anything like this accomplished with bleach; spraying with bleach will make the area white but it's does nothing for odor and has no ability to neutralize the odor molecules. This means you'll only be bleaching the smell and odor molecules you directly touch with the bleach. The Odor Eliminator will work as long as it's in the area since it can neutralize the odor in the air. This is key since spraying everything is sometimes tought to accomplish when it's hidden down in the insulation.
One thorough treatment should solve the problem but if you still notice a smell a few days after you treat, go back up and see if the odor found it's way into the wall void. If this happened, you may need to spray or foam the wall void to make sure you get product close to where it permeated. Our FOAMING TOOL is ideal for this treatment and will deliver the Odor Eliminator exactly where it needs to be.
Here are links to all the products mentioned above so you can read up on them and order on line as well:
Bat Odor Control Article: http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page219.html#892
NNZ Odor Neutralizer: http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page894.html
Foaming Tool: http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page1358.html
Filed under smell odor by
I HAVE BEEN TOLD THAT THE SULPHER ARE GOOD FOR GETTING RID OF SHUNKS UNDER A HOUSE, IS THIS TRUE? AND IF NOT DO YOU HAVE ANY PRODUCTS THAT ARE GOOD FOR GETTING RID OF SHUNKS AND KEEPING THEM GONE !!
THANKS.
First, I think what you meant to type skunks and not shunks so I'll be answering your questions with the hope that it's the skunk "animal" you are asking about.
To start, a good place to read up on them is in our online SKUNK CONTROL article which goes over all you'll need to know about this stinky critter. As you'll learn, they don't always want to "pick up" and "leave" once they've established a good nest site. You don't mention if they're nesting in a burrow, under a slab via a tunnel they dug, a crawl space or any other number of possible scenario's that might exist when describing "under a house". Without this information, it's hard for me to say what would be the best choice of repellent for them as we have several available and they all are best used in different problem areas.
With that in mind, the general rule is SULPHER STICKS are really best used for small rodents like rats, ground squirrels and gophers. Though the label clearly lists woodchucks and skunks, we have seen mixed results when used for these larger animals. I just think skunks and woodchucks are too large of an animal to be affected and though young ones might be scared off or vulnerable enough to succumb to the gas release, females with nests and older males probably won't mind the smell much and in the end, they'll do enough to prevail and persist. In other words, when the "cloud" clears, there is a good chance your skunk problem will still be active.
Second, if they are living in an open area, I don't think the Gassers are the best option. Go with one of the ULTRA SOUND DEVICES listed in this post: http://www.bugspray.net/skunks/skunk-living-under-porch.html
Lastly, if you need further advice, give us a call on our toll free at 1-800-877-7290 and I'm sure one of our reps will be able to further assist.
Here are links to the pages cited above:
http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page601.html
http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page2015.html
http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page1074.html
jonathan www.bugspray.comFiled under shunks by
