Hi – I read your article on stink bugs. I still am not sure which product to use in my situation. My screened in porch is infested (as is the connected deck area). What would be best to use on my porch? It has cedar siding and Anderson screens. I appreciate your advice- G.A.
In our STINKBUG CONTROL ARTICLE, there are two products listed which are commonly used for screened in porch. The one you choose will mostly depend on how good your sprayer is. When spraying the siding of the porch, house and any other structure, the liquid coming out of most any sprayer can be heavy but that won't be a problem for this task. As for what to spray; the CYPERMETHRIN would be ideal. It lasts long and handles this pest well. But when spraying the screens, the liquid could make a mess inside and this could be a problem. If there is a problem spraying the screens directly, there are two work around solutions that will enable them to be treated without making a mess.
The first is your sprayer. If the one you are intending on using won't allow for a light mist to flow from it's nozzle, get one of our SOLO HD SPRAYERS. These have a nozzle you can adjust to a fine mist so when spraying from inside the porch and pointing to the outside, you should be able to lightly mist the screens without runoff or mess splashing back inside.
The second option is to not use the Cypermethrin at all but instead opt to apply the BAYGON AEROSOL. This comes in a spray can and you can lightly fan it over the screening where needed. Remember the Baygon won't provide any long term protection so if you want something that will last a week or two, use the PT-CYKICK AEROSOL. It can be used the same way but will last long after it's sprayed.
Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:
Stinkbug Control Article: http://www.bugspray.com/article/stinkbug.html
Cypermethrin: http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page1006.html
Solo HD: http://www.gotosprayer.com/sprayers/pump-sprayers/one-gallon-solo-hd
Baygon Aerosol: http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page1007.html
PT Cykick: http://www.bugspray.com/item/pt_cykick.html
Filed under stinkbug product by 
I found your website by googleing and I have read the info on leaf cutter bees. Still need to ask questions though. This is the second year that we have become aware of this problem, so much so that we have been so disappointed with our roses. Now that we are going into the fall and freezing will be coming on here in NW Nebraska, I'm wondering what, if anything, we should be doing now???? I even had some product intended for barnyard that had the product in that you sell(pyretherine?) and it really did a bad number on the plants(could be, I sprayed it wrong time of day). Could you please advise me as to your recommendations? Thank you kindly.
In our LEAF CUTTER BEE CONTROL ARTICLE, we have both PERMETHRIN CONCENTRATE and PERMETHRIN DUST featured. These products can be sprayed directly on your roses and will not damage them if you do the treatment in the evening after dinner. As a general rule, you should never spray any plants in the middle of the day when it's hot outside. Early morning treatments are okay; evening treatments are the best.
Since leaf cutter bees are generally thought of as "beneficial", you might consider repelling them and not killing them. To do this, use the INSECT REPELLENT CONCENTRATE instead of the Permethrin. This product is completely organic and won't hurt any insects; it's merely a repellent and will keep away pests where applied. Just mix it with water and do your spraying in the evening to avoid heat damage.
Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:
Leaf Cutter Bee Article: http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page1344.html
Permethrin Concetrate: http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page1344.html
Permethrin Dust: http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page1348.html
Insect Repellent Concentrate: http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/repellents/nbs-repellent-insect-spray
Filed under how to treat by
Hi there,
I found your website while frantically searching how to control he moth infestation I have in my backyard. I apparently have eggs that are laid and hatching in my landscape. Is there a product that I can use ON the plants to not only kill what is alive but keep what is already laid from hatching? I have holes in leaves (from the caterpillars I assume???) as well as grey-colored moths that fly about. HELP!!
Thanks!
T.M.
It sounds like you have an active SOD WEBWORM infestation and should treat with the BIFEN GRANULES and CYONARA RTS listed in the following post:
http://www.bugspray.net/sod-webworms/lawn-moth-invasion-and-control.html
The liquid Cyonara will kill off the existing moths and caterpillars; the Bifen will get down into the soil and take care of any larvae moving there thus breaking the cycle.
Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:
Bifen Granules: http://www.bugspray.com/item/453410.html
Cyonara RTS: http://www.bugspray.com/item/cyonara_rts.html
Filed under how to treat by
I have a lawn infested with some kind of moth. They've been active since the spring but now I'm seeing small worm like caterpillars throughout the grass. Also the grass looks like it's been eaten. I'm pretty sure these moths are laying eggs in the grass and these caterpillars are their young but I don't know where to start treating. What can I use? I've got about 10,000 sq/ft of lawn they're in.
It sounds like you've got sod webworms. Some people call them lawn moths or moth worms; these are a lawn pest which eats grass and lives in the turf. The adult moth doesn't eat grass but it does lay a lot of eggs. Typically the eggs fall out over the lawn and over the course of the summer these eggs hatch out small caterpillar like worms that feed on the blades of most any turf grass found in the United States. They'll munch and eat for a month or two and then spend another month pupating into an adult stage.
Once they hatch out to their adult moth phase, males and females mate and females start laying eggs over the rest of her lifetime. In the south, webworms can generate 3 generations a year. Up north there is usually 1-2 cycles per season. At the end of the summer, the feeding, young caterpillars will go dormant in their pupae stage and hibernate during the winter. They do this down in the soil and there they'll stay till the following spring. If left untreated, small populations will grow annually until their impact will be very noticeable one season. In the spring when they first emerge, it's hard to see them but late summer the damage they do will become very noticeable as populations peak.
Sod webworms can be controlled using a combination of granules and liquid sprays. BIFEN GRANULES should be spread out over the turf at the rate of 25 lbs for every 20,000 sq/ft. Treatments should be made every 2 months during the warm season with at least 4 treatments per year. The granules are slow release and will filter down into the ground a few inches where they'll control larvae as they hatch. These same granules will also get late season caterpillars making their way into the soil to hibernate effectively stopping the cycle.
After applying the granules you should spray over the top with CYONARA RTS or CYONARA CONCENTRATE. Both are highly active on webworms and will quickly kill off any active in the treated areas. Liquid treatments should continue every two weeks if you still see damage or live worms moving in the grass. The RTS version comes packaged in a hose end sprayer so all you need to do is attach it to your garden hose and start using it. The concentrated version will require a good HOSE END SPRAYER for the treatment but will prove more economical if you have a large area to treat over the course of a season. Cyonara is active on a wide range of turf pests, is just about odorless and very safe to use in yards where people or pets are active. When treatments are timed properly, you should be able to eliminate the average infestation with just 1-2 applications of both the granules and the liquids.
Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:
Bifen Granules: http://www.bugspray.com/item/453410.html
Cyonara RTS: http://www.bugspray.com/item/cyonara_rts.html
Cyonara Concentrate: http://www.bugspray.com/item/cyonara_ec.html
Hose End Sprayer: http://www.gotosprayer.com/sprayers/hose-end-sprayers/gilmour-six-gallon-hose-end-385
Filed under sod webworms by
Jonathan, We live in Arkansas and have a screened in porch. We have a problem with some pest laying a string of eggs on the screens, (also soffet and metal siding even glass). This is very unsightly. It started early summer and continues still. We do have a lot of moths so could it be a moth problem on the screens. Thanks, S.
There are many possible insects and animals that could be laying the eggs you're seeing. The most common that do this are frogs and moths. Since you cite you're seeing moths around the house, I'm leaning toward them. If you review our MILLER MOTH CONTROL article, you'll see we offer several options you can employ to both get rid of them and their egg laying. Remember, ARMY WORMS and CUT WORMS are two species which are quite active right now and if you're seeing caterpillars in your turf, these little guys can really do a lot of damage. The adult stage of these pests is a moth and come August-September, these moths will start egg laying. If this is the species present and they're generating the eggs, it means the start to a potentially bad problem if you leave it untreated.
At this point I'd consider spraying with either the CYFLUTHRIN or the CYONARA RTS listed in our Moth and Worm articles. Either product will control any insect that could be responsible for what you're seeing. If it turns out to be frogs or some other reptile that's laying the eggs, these sprays tend to repel reptiles so there is a good chance they'll up and leave the treated areas. In the end, the egg laying would most likely subside and more importantly, the treatment would probably get control of any insect active as well as hold off any potential infestation.
Miller Moth Control Article: http://www.bugspray.com/article/millermoth.html
Army Worms: http://www.bugspray.net/how-to-control/armyworms-in-grass.html
Cutworms: http://www.bugspray.net/cutworms/cutworm-control.html
Cyfluthrin: http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page1472.html
Cyonara RTS: http://www.bugspray.com/item/cyonara_rts.html
Filed under unknown insect by
Cutworms are a general term used to refer to caterpillars that damage plants by cutting their stem close to the ground. Many species exist and though some are plant specific when foraging, others will attack randomly and can destroy plants and crops at alarming rates. When foraging around top soil, many solitary cutworms will cut plants down and surprisingly not even eat them. Foraging is common at night and lawns, flowers and ground cover plants are all targets of this destructive pattern these caterpillars will exhibit.
Climbing cutworm species are more likely to affect trees, shrubs and vines. The variegated and spotted cutworms are the most common climbing species and some will even chew on fruit and vegetables affecting vegetable gardens and their harvest during the summer months.
Subterranean species live in the ground and will affect most any type of grass or shrub. Often times people refer to them as grubs and will blame them on large damaged sections of their turf when growing grass is seemingly impossible. Army cutworms, also known as army worms, will many times have cyclical peaks where populations explode and they'll march through neighborhoods wreaking havoc and plant destruction where feeding.
Cutworms come in many sizes and shapes. In general, they are a smooth and soft bodied caterpillar. Colors range from brown to tan to green and black. Some are solid colors; others are striped or spotted. All will pupate and molt into moths in their final or adult stage. Common adult moths will be brown or black with blotches or stripes. If you notice a lot of moth activity in mid to late summer, it's highly likely there are some cutworms on your property and these are emerging adults that have successfully completed their life cycle. Adult moths tend to stay around the turf where they fed as young. Though they can fly well, they're quick to identify and take advantage of untreated landscaping. Expect these moths to mate and start laying eggs late summer so the cycle can continue.
Cutworms will live and hibernate through the winter. Nestled down in the top soil or under garden mulch, they'll be ready to come out and start feeding as soon as it's warm enough in spring. Most regions of the United States will generate one generation of cutworms per year but in the south, two life cycles may develop with the right mix of warmth and water. Cutworms are largely dependent on rainfall. The more rain the more prosperous they'll become and it's been noted that years of heavy rainfall following years of drought are an especially active time for this pest. When larval stages of cutworms have "fed out", they'll dig down into the ground and pupate into adults. The adult moths will hatch out mid to late summer and can be seen fluttering around plants, shrubs and other landscaping in the yard. Innocent and sometimes even pretty to watch, these are the first tell tale signs you have a developing problem that should be treated. Left alone, cutworms will develop into a widespread infestation that can damage most any plant on your property.
Treating cutworms should be done at the first sign of detection. Since larval stages overwinter in the thatch, mulch and top soil of any landscaped environment, granule treatments will be effective anytime they're applied. A good program to follow is to treat every 2-3 months with BIFEN GRANULES throughout the yard. This odorless granule will soak down into the soil and effectively eliminate feeding or hibernating larvae. Bifen applied 2-3 times a year will probably take care of any local perimeter pest and is one of the best ways to keep pests in check before they become a major problem.
If you have active cutworms damaging plants, apply the Bifen and then spray over the top with some CYONARA RTS. This ready-to-spray liquid is low odor and comes with it's own hose end sprayer. Just hook it to your garden hose and get to work. It will kill and control any worms currently active and combined with the Bifen will handle just about any pest. It's okay to spray on plants as well as the exterior of any structure where adult moths might be landing at night. If you expect to be spraying a lot over the course of the season, get the CYONARA CONCENTRATE and apply it with a HOSE END SPRAYER. This form will be better suited for larger areas where more product will be needed.
Cutworm infestations will start small but develop over time into major pest problems if left untreated. The best approach when dealing with an active infestation is to treat the entire yard including flower beds, ground cover, mulch islands and grassy areas. Treating 2-3 times a year can prevent cutworms from getting established in your turf but if you have an active infestation, treat more frequently to get rid of them.
Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:
Bifen Granules: http://www.bugspray.com/item/453410.html
Cyonara RTS: http://www.bugspray.com/item/cyonara_rts.html
Cyonara Concentrate: http://www.bugspray.com/item/cyonara_ec.html
Hose End Sprayer: http://www.gotosprayer.com/sprayers/hose-end-sprayers/gilmour-six-gallon-hose-end-385
Filed under cutworms by
I accidentally disturbed a nest in the ground of sweat bees while weed eating. They swarmed over me and the weed eater. I have to say, their stings were very painful, 6 to 8 on my legs, hand and arms. This was not expected, and contradicts some of what I have read since. Swelling and severe pain was experienced. These were brown/black with yellow stripes, 1/2-inch in length.
My first thought is that you may have encountered something other than a common sweat bee. Typically sweat bees live in the ground but they don't "attack" or swarm like you've described. However, they look a lot like a yellow jacket and the two are commonly mistaken for one another. If you compare a SWEAT BEE and a YELLOW JACKET, you'll note they have a similar pattern. Additionally, there are different species of both distributed throughout the country and many are so similar it's easy to mistake one for the other.
Another type of bee it could have been is the common DIGGER WASP. They can and will sting and though generally not aggressive, they do group up in great numbers different times of the year. Regardless of what you have active on the property, I suggest you treat the nest using the products and treatment methods listed in our Digger Wasp article. If you now think they're yellow jackets (which commonly nest in the ground too), treat them as explained in our YELLOWJACKET CONTROL ARTICLE.
Sweat Bee Picture: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sweat_bee
Yellow Jacket Picture: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yellow_jacket
Digger Wasp Article: http://www.bugspray.com/articles99/diggerwasps.html
Yellowjacket Control Article: http://www.bugspray.com/article/yellowjackets.html
Filed under how to treat by
HI,
For the first time , we are having vole damage. Specifically the voles are chewing our geraniums plants. I’ve tried a repellent, it did not work.
Our next approach would be to gas them in their tunnels, unfortunately I’m having the devil of a time finding the entrance to the tunnels, any suggestions?
Thanks,
P.K.
If you take some time to review our VOLE CONTROL ARTICLE, you'll learn we have several vole repellents you can use. When it comes to treating plants, you'll have to inject the product down into the soil in order to get it heavy enough to impact the chewing and gnawing. But if they're active above ground, trapping them might be easier. All the products can be seen in the article with advice on how to use each type.
Here is a direct link to the information listed above:
Vole Control Article: http://www.bugspray.com/article/voles.html
Filed under vole repellent by
I need a deer deturant for two openings in my fence until I have time to build cattle guards. Do you think it will work? J.
We have several deer repellents that would work for your unique situation. The most direct would be the MOTION ACTIVATED WATER SPRAYER. Set them up at each entrance and when deer approach, they'll be repelled big time. This device has a good range and is quite effective on many animals. You can even set the water supply on a timer so it will only kick in when your local deer population are active which is usually the evening time.
Alternatively you can install some ULTRA SOUND REPELLERS. These devices emit a high frequency sound deer can't stand. They'll stay clear of where they here one going off.
Lastly, you could opt for some COYOTE URINE. If your local deer are subject to coyote attacks, they'll no doubt be afraid of the scent and again, stay clear of the area.
Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:
Water Sprayer: http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page882.html
Ultra Sound Devices: http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page1136.html
Coyote Urine: http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page619.html
How to repel unwanted deer: http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page617.html
Filed under whitetail repellent by
Hi Jonathan – I am a landscape designer having a run-in with thrips! I installed a hedge of dodonaea shrubs several months ago. My client recently called me to check on the hedge – I was horrified to see the condition they were in and shocked that they hadn't called me months early as there was obviously a problem. All 20 dodonaeas need to be removed and I will replace them with podocarpus gracilior . My question to you is: Should I treat the soil and area before installing the new plant material? How can I prevent the problem from returning? Any help you can give my on the subject will be greatly appreciated. Many Thanks – J.
I don't think there will be much to gain from treating the soil right now so hold off for now. However, I strongly suspect there is a nearby infestation that might need to dealt with and I suggest you do a good inspection prior to the install. If you read our THRIP CONTROL ARTICLE, you'll learn this pest will thrive on a wide range of plants. If you can find other nearby shrubs infested, I would recommend dealing with them first before you replant. New plantings are particularly vulnerable to aggressive thrips and they'll take full advantage. To hold off any such attack, you'll need to find where the current problem is located and treat it accordingly.
I fully expect you will find them on some other plants in your clients yard. If that comes to be, treat with the TALSTAR and SPREADER STICKER. I also recommend hitting the soil in these areas with the CYFLUTHRIN GRANULES. After monitoring the infestation for a week or so, you should see the population dwindle and disappear. At that point you can proceed as you desire and no soil treatments should be done if this happens now or this fall.
Now if you can't find thrips on your clients property but suspect they could be coming from a neighboring property, treatment options might be limited. If this proves to be the case, you may want to proceed with the replanting of the dodonaea's but just be sure and let the client know they'll have to spray every 1-2 months if they wish to keep the plants protected. Unfortunately, I'm afraid if you cannot treat and reduce a neighboring problem, thrips will naturally forage onto the clients property and plants left unprotected will suffer. This fall treating the soil with granules would be smart but treating this area now won't help much whether you replant or not.
Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:
Thrip Control Article: http://www.bugspray.com/article/thrips.html
Talstar: http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page1315.html
Spreader Sticker: http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page1317.html
Cyfluthrin Granules: http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page1321.html
Filed under how to treat by
Hello,
Can you tell me what this animal is?
Lately I have noticed raised earth in my garden like something is tunneling under ground. Its in my garden next to my cedars and I hope they don't kill them? There are sometimes clean holes about 2 inches in the garden as well.
Any advise on what this is and how to control it would be helpful.
Thank you.
You've got moles. There are some 6-8 species active in North America and this would be one of them. To start with, I suggest you read our MOLE CONTROL ARTICLE which will go over all the options you have to control local infestations. The article will go over various traps, repellents and baits that can be employed. Depending on the problem, you might be able to repel them but if you have more then 2-3, I suggest using the MOLE WORM BAIT. It's very effective, easy to use and the moles will readily accept your placements.
Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:
Mole Control Article: http://www.bugspray.com/articles98/moles.html
Mole Worm Bait: http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page2068.html
Filed under what is it by
Hi Jonathan
I have a question for you. A friend of mine asked me if we saw the news reports lately on the Army Moths? They are eating up lawns like crazy and they recommended Seven Liquid to spray on the lawn. Well everyone must have seen the reports (I did not) and ran to the Homedepot and bought up all the 7 Liquid. Well my question is what would a good product would be to use on them? Can I spray it with a hose end sprayer? Have you ever heard of an army moth?
Army moths are actually the end result of army worms. In fact we have lots of good sprays for them but in general it would be best to set out some BIFEN GRANULES first and then spray over the top with CYONARA RTS. We have a post which details the process you can read in great detail here:
Army Worm Control: http://www.bugspray.net/how-to-control/armyworms-in-grass.html
And here are links to the products we recommend:
Bifen Granules: http://www.bugspray.com/item/453410.html
Cyonara RTS: http://www.bugspray.com/item/cyonara_rts.html
Filed under how to treat by
I was glad to find your website; I’m hoping you can give me some suggestions. We bought a new house in April and two months later I noticed one night the bathroom floor crawling with what I now know are spring tails. We have had Orkin pest control here countless times and the only thing it seems to do is knock down the numbers for a little bit. I don’t know where to begin to look for where they are coming in. I was hoping that putting down grass would help draw them out to the yard but I actually think it’s making it worse again. The Orkin man said because we had more rain than normal, people are having springtail problems but he told us once it got hot out they’d go away…not so much. They have emerged all over the house but are most prevalent in the master bathroom (sinks and floor), Kitchen (sink and floor), powder bathroom sink and bedroom window sills. They are in the garage too. I’m at my wits end. I’m ready to buy all the products you suggest but maybe you can make some recommendations and suggest where to start. I do know the orkin man has not sprayed their stuff under the house yet. I don’t get why our house and not the neighbors.
Thank you for your time
C., Kennewick, WA
If you read through our SPRINGTAIL CONTROL ARTICLE, you'll learn this pest lives and thrives outside in the yard just under the grass, pine straw, mulch, thatch, grass clippings and basically anywhere there is dirt. From the dirt they will migrate when populations grow and hit certain levels. During the migration they'll many times enter homes as they move around. If you're home is built on a slab, they are no doubt coming up through the bathroom trap and would explain why you're seeing them in the bathroom so much. But they can access slab homes through other pipe access areas (kitchens) as well as cracks/crevices and other normal structural designs which are not "flaws" but in fact quite standard design. The bottom line is trying to stop them from getting inside is a lot harder to accomplish compared to killing them outside which in turn will prevent the invasion altogether.
For now, I would recommend the BIFEN GRANULES and CYONARA RTS to be applied around the home. Treat all your turf, flower beds, mulch piles and pretty much any part of the yard around all sides of the home which has dirt. First apply the Bifen granules and then spray over the top with the Cyonara RTS. This process is both explained and shown in our springtail video which you can see in the article. If you do this treatment around the home every 1-2 months over a 6-12 month period, you'll no doubt reduce their numbers so much that none will be around the house on the outside and by eliminating this population, you won't have any getting inside.
Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:
Springtail Control Article: http://www.bugspray.com/article/springtail.html
Bifen Granules: http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page719.html
Cyonara RTS: http://www.bugspray.com/item/cyonara_rts.html
Filed under how to stop by
I have a large screened-in back porch with 20/20 insect screening. I also live on a canal in Florida so no-see-ums are a problem especially in this area. The area is sprayed by plane every week or so.
I was wondering if I can spray a product on my screening because some still get through and during the season when we-re not air conditioning I would like to open the doors to my house from the back porch. Is there a product I could spray on that would have some residual? If there is such a product would it be sprayed on the inside or outside of the screening?
If you read through our NOSEEUM CONTROL ARTICLE, you'll see we have several concentrates that can be used in and around the home for noseeum's. Some of these products can last a week or two or even longer. Over the years, we have had people treat screens with the PERMETHRIN and they've found the treatment can last at least a couple of weeks and it really seems to help. For longer control, use the CYONARA. It can last 1-2 months so obviously you'll get much longer control. Both products are odorless and easy to mix and apply.
When treating, the easy way is to spray it on. But in some cases this causes a mess on the house depending on the sprayer you have and the kind finish on the home. If this is an issue, you might consider removing the screens and either soaking them in a finished solution or laying them out on the lawn and spraying them down while off the house. Allow them to dry for 30-60 minutes following the treatment and they can be reinstalled without making a mess.
Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:
Noseeum Control Article: http://www.bugspray.com/article/sandflies.html
Permethrin: http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page1380.html
Filed under how to treat by
I've been told the small caterpillars I'm seeing in my yard are armyworms. They're eating my bermuda and I don't want them getting to my fescue. What's your best spray or is there a granule that's better?
Armyworms can appear throughout the summer months and can damage most any southern turfgrass. Though they prefer St. Augustine, bermuda, ryegrass and bluegrass, they'll readily attack most any fescue or bent grass turf when foraging. They also eat plants, flowers and basically anything green and low lying in the yard they find. Distributed throughout the United States in most any state that has decent moisture and green lawns, armyworms release 2-3 waves of larvae per season. Starting in the south, larvae feed, pupate and emerge as a moth that tends to fly north where it will mate, lay eggs and start the cycle all over again. Females can lay hundreds of eggs so a yard can go from none to a lot seemingly overnight. When conditions are right, there can be huge migrations of this pest across the southeast and up toward the Canadian border.
Armyworms damage grass by eating it's crown or grass blades. They'll create or weave webs across your turf in small areas which are easiest to see if viewed in early morning when the dew is still wet. During the day the larvae will hide amongst the thatch or in self made tunnels just below the soils surface. Anyone that leaves grass clippings to mulch back as fertilizer is creating a haven for many insects including armyworms. They love this environment. If you've been leaving your clippings or if you note a lot of loose thatch throughout your yard, get it cleaned up. This will help by both eliminating their nest sites and allowing treatments to work better after being applied.
Though it's common to see small damaged areas, armyworms will scatter throughout your turf so it's important to treat the whole yard. Many times the damage they cause will denude or brown patches in the grass. This damage can be misdiagnosed as a fungus since the end result is similar looking. But if you're seeing the adult moths or young caterpillars and are sure you have activity, get treating to reduce long term damage.
The strongest treatment option includes a combination of BIFEN GRANULES and CYONARA. Apply the granules first at the rate of 1.15 lb's per 1000 sq/ft of turf. Do this 2-3 times per year. Bifen granules work well on most any pest and it's a good idea to use them a few times a year whether you have armyworms or not. In fact, simply applying them 3 times a year will probably prevent armyworms from ever getting established in your turf. But once they're active, it will require a 1-2 punch to knock them out for good. After applying granules, spray over the top with the Cyonara using a HOSE END SPRAYER. Use .5 oz of product for every 1000 sq/ft of turf. We also have CYONARA RTS which basically is the same product but ready-to-spray. In theory you should only have to spray 1-2 to knock out the current infestation and then apply granules periodically to prevent future problems.
Organic options would be applied the same. Instead of Bifen Granules, use the ECO GRANULES. They too should be applied throughout the year to prevent pests and if you use them 3-4 times (quarterly), you'll help keep most any common pest under control in the yard. Once the granules are applied, spray over the top using ECO IC or BUG PATROL. The ECO is a concentrate and you'll need the Hose End Sprayer to apply it; the Bug Patrol comes with it's own sprayer and is ready-to-spray.
Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:
Bifen Granules: http://www.bugspray.com/item/453410.html
Cyonara Concentrate: http://www.bugspray.com/item/cyonara_ec.html
Hose End Sprayer: http://www.gotosprayer.com/sprayers/hose-end-sprayers/gilmour-six-gallon-hose-end-385
Cyonara RTS: http://www.bugspray.com/item/cyonara_rts.html
ECO Granules: http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/granules/eco-exempt-granules
ECO IC: http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/concentrates/eco-exempt-ic-concentrate
Bug Patrol: http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/concentrates/bug-patrol-rts
Filed under how to control by
