I saw your website and the lawn dye that was advertised. I do not want this for my lawn but for my sago palm that has unfortunately suffered some freeze damage. The fronds are partially green and partially brown so I want to cover the brown. Would this product work? If so, what mixture water to dye should I use? Thanks so much!
We have had people use LAWN DYE for more than just grass and it's worked well. Designed for use on plants, it would be OK to try and with the right mixture, you should be able to hide most of the frost damage. Unfortunately there is no set "mix" rate for such use. We suggest mixing up a small amount first to use as a sample to test the color. What's a small amount? A pint would be a good small amount. Add two ounces of Lawn Green to a pint a water, mix it up and apply some to see how it looks. Add more for a darker finished color if needed. Once satisfied go ahead and mix up a larger quantity and go to work.
Remember too that pruning some fronds might help the cause. I'm not sure when this should be done with Sago's in your region but removing some should allow the plant to rebound faster. Combined with the Lawn Green and you should be able to get a good cosmetic fix.
Filed under lawn paint by 
I am interested in this product (CARPENTER ANT GEL), but am concerned about it being used aroud small animals or children????? Any suggesstions???
Apparently there is still some confusion about insect bait and it's safe use since we get quite a few question on this subject. The fact is that all pesticides are safe when used in accordance to their label. When applied properly, liquid concentrates, aerosols and granular products pose little or no hazard to people or pets. There are many things you can do to insure safe use, handling and storage of our pesticide products and for anyone with questions or concerns, a great source of information to start would be with our SAFETY VIDEOS which summarize most all you need to know for safe use.
In fact, insect baits were designed with safety in mind; they were originally introduced and marketed with safety being their main advantage for sensitive areas where children and pets were present. Since these products rely on ingestion (intentionally eating), they can be formulated with active ingredients which many times can only affect insects and not mammals. Remember, mammals have very complex digestive systems and include strong acids and other components which enable them to digest most small doses of insect bait with no measurable impact. This means that if a pet or child were to ingest a bait placement there is little risk anything would happen. Does this mean it's OK for them to be eating the stuff? Of course not. But if you follow the label and make proper placements, there is little chance of this happening.
Additionally, one of the main features of Carpenter Ant Gel is that it can be placed in discreet locations where pets and children should have a hard time finding. In fact, when used properly, there should only a little dab smaller than a grain of rice at any one placement. The attractant in the gel is strong and does a good job of luring carpenter ants so you don't need to put it out in the open for all to see. Make your placements close to where the ants are being seen but keeping in mind you can hide it behind appliances or furniture, up and out of the way.
So in summary, CARPENTER ANT GEL, like most of our insect baits, can be used safely in and around the home. Be sure to store unused portions where pets and children will not have access and make isolated, small placements to reduce non target ingestion and when done as such, there is really no need for concern. If you have further questions or concerns, you may call us at 1-800-877-7290 for further assistance.
Filed under bait safety by
I purchased item 822282, which is a live plastic covered trap, a few months ago my nieghbor borrowed it when it came back the hardware inside the cage was missing can i buy new parts?
We can sometimes offer advice on how to fix live traps or get replacement parts depending on the make and model. Since we carry over a 100 models, it's best to give us a call so we are sure to get you hooked up with the right pieces. Our toll free is 1-800-877-7290 and ask for Mike when you call.
Filed under traps by
Hi,
Starting early last summer we had thrips starting to appear mainly around our kitchen sink. We sprayed the exterior area outside the kitchen window where we have various shrubs planted but the infestation appearance inside continued. We live in Eastern Washington state and as the weather got colder they disappeared but now with temperatures getting into the 40+ range they are once again appearing. I have read your article on THRIP CONTROL and wonder if you have available a fogger that I could use in the crawl space since I assume that is where they are coming from. Any help or advice would be appreciated.
We do have some FOGGERS you can use in your crawl space but I'm not sure this will resolve the problem. There are just too many "other" possible nest sites commonly found in and around the home which could be related to the problem. Failing to treat these sites would mean your crawl space treatments would be in vain and could cost a lot of money that in the end would be wasted. Before you proceed, I suggest you consider one (or more) of these other possible nest sites.
1) Thrips like to live on and around plants. Do you have any potted plants in the home which could be harboring good soil that thrips would like to use for nesting? This is a very common problem that "surfaces" inside homes toward the end of winter.
2) Thrips like moisture. As explained in our THRIP CONTROL ARTICLE, they generally reside in the top soil so the area immediately around the home is more likely where they are still living and not the crawl space. You said it's been rainy and I'm guessing there is some prime real estate around your house which they would love. What leads you to believe they are in the crawl space and not out in the dirt and mulch directly adjacent to your house? And when did you last treat this area? Remember, pest control needs to be done on a regular basis since the products available today are shore lived and for the most part don't provide any good solid long term control.
3) If you are quite sure they are in the crawl space, then treating it only makes sense. But as I stated above, foggers are far from a "good" way to treat such a hostile environment. In the Thrip Control article we mention DELTAMETHRIN DUST for use on non-edible plants. This same dust is quite effective on most any invasive pest and when applied to crawl spaces and attics can last many months. Foggers will only last hours; days at most. If in fact the thrips are nesting in your crawl space, applying something like the Deltamethrin would be the better investment of time and effort. In fact, the treatment would most likely last now through most of this year (unless your crawl space floods out) and it works on so many different pests.
In summary, since thrips fly they can sometimes be a tough pest to both identify and treat. Based on the limited amount of information we have, it's tough to say with any certainty that a quick "fogging" with a total release aerosol would really help. I suggest you treat the outside of the home with one of the residual products we have listed in our Thrip Control article and then dust the crawl space with Deltamethrin which will control pests in either area quite well. If you're still seeing any thrip movement 1-2 weeks following a good thorough treatment, it would only seem logical that something must be nesting in the home and will require some further investigative work to solve the problem. Give us a call if you need further help or assistance; thrips can be frustrating if you don't consider all nest sites and we should be able to do a good job of preparing you for what to expect prior to any treatment.
Filed under thrips by
We are looking for a trap for a Giant Dog – We have tried a 28 X 20 X 72 and it is too low for the dog to go into….do you know of a bigger trap?
Filed under dogs by
Hi,
I read your page on bed bugs. I agree that we should determine our problem before treating. I have had been attacked by bed bugs in a hotel 3 years ago, and now they appear to be in our home (Based on the bites – and how they move a little and bite again).
This weekend we tore apart the bed, night stand and dresser, and we don’t see any evidence-fecees, bugs,…. I’m thinking we are pretty newly infected. I was at my mom’s house over Christmas/New Years, and I suspect I picked them up there. I didn’t notice any bites, but I remember seeing a small bug one day in the bathroom. Probably travelled to our house by suitcase.
I saw your write up stating to use the Flea Trap as a device to capture them (Since I haven’t seen any yet – I would like to capture one for evidence). I was wondering, if they only come out at night, wouldn’t this device make light so they wouldn’t come to it? I agree the heat definitely draws them. My body heat is more than my wife, and only I seem to be getting bitten. Of course I think her allergic reaction may not even exist and they probably are biting her.
Have you ever caught bed bugs with this Flea Trap? I don’t want to spend money on something that may not work. The light in the picture makes me think they will stay away from this. How else would they be nocturnal?
Thanks!
First, if you review the BEDBUG CONTROL ARTICLE, you'll see we don't state to use the trap for catching bedbugs. In fact, we state you should use it when you are unsure of what you have active that might be biting. Since this trap has caught so many different biting insects that forage at night (many of which are attracted to light and even some that are thought to not like light) we learned it can be helpful for these situations. Here is an excerpt from our article making reference to the trap:
"….for those of you not sure whether or not you have bedbugs here is what you must do. First, get one of our HEAT TRAPS. This device was created for flea control. We have sold thousands of them over the years and during that time have learned they work very well for not only fleas but other pests. Any heat seeking insect like a mosquito, gnat, flea, etc has been attracted and trapped by these devices. We have used them as an aid for bedbugs on several occasions when we have been at a loss as to what pest was present. The best way to use one is to set it up, plug it in and place it at the foot of …"
The link you supplied was from our shopping cart which gives more information on what it is and not about any specific pest so that's probably where you got confused. We don't recommend using this device for catching bedbugs but it does catch a bunch of other pests which like to bite people so when we have inquiries asking "what can I do to figure out what I have", this trap is many times the best answer.
Second, I have seen bedbugs forage during the day when hungry so even though they tend to be active at night, they'll bite anytime a meal is present and accessible. Remember, most people (and other warm blooded animals) sleep at night and during this time are quite vulnerable. I suspect this is why bedbugs mostly feed under the guise of darkness and over time have grown to prefer this time period but they aren't so much afraid of light as they are afraid of being seen. Darkness helps conceal their movement and for obvious reasons a "safer" time for them to forage.
Lastly, I think there are 1-2 products you can start applying which will take care of most pests that could be involved here so I suggest you give us a call on our toll free 1-800-877-7290. I'm sure after answering a few questions we'll be able to come up with a strategy that will cover most anything you might have and for now, this could be the best approach.
Filed under bed bugs by
The yard at my home is three acres. I have a severe Mole problem. What product could I use that will kill the white grub population and that the average guy can afford to use on this large area?
If you review our online article on WHITE GRUB CONTROL, you'll see we have several options. At this time of year, it would be wise to first apply some GRANULES and then spray over the top with the CYONARA RTS. This combination will provide a quick knockdown as well as long protection. Since we're still in winter, the grubs are quite high up near the top of the soil and therefore vulnerable; treating now can have a good overall impact.
To make sure they don't return, treat at least once this spring/summer and then again next fall and you should be able to maintain control. This will indirectly cause the moles to leave and your grass to be a lot healthier. If you have further questions or concerns, give us a call on our toll free at 1-800-877-7290.
Filed under grubs by
Dear Sir.
I need to spray my home for these stink bugs. I have a sprayer bottle that I pump up. I mailed the bug to a lab and I'm 100% sure that is what I have . It was suggested I use Baygon. What product do you suggest I use I do not want to use aerosol Cans. Do you sell the correct chemical I can mix and put in my sprayer to spray my house
Thank you.
P.S. I was told they are Brown Marmorated Stink Bugs
Stink bugs are very much a problem once they get inside the home as explained in our STINK BUG CONTROL article. As the article explains, it's best to get them before they enter by spraying the outside of the home. Since it's the middle of winter and you're seeing them inside, it's not likely such a treatment would help much right now. Fortunately there are some things you can inside that will help.
As our article explains, the best approach in living areas is to treat with the BAYGON AEROSOL. You seem adverse to using an aerosol and if it's due to odor, consider the PT-PHANTOM. It's both odorless and essentially "dry" when applied. In other words, when sprayed properly, you won't be able to tell it's even present. Phantom has proven very effective on the marmorated stink bug so I know it will help the cause.
Lastly, since you've requested a "spray", I'll assume you mean a concentrate that can be mixed with water and applied via the "sprayer bottle" you mention you have. The CYPERMETHRIN listed in our stink bug article can be used inside but it will have a slight odor. If you prefer something odorless, go with the ESFENVALERATE. It's odorless, easy to use and a little bit goes a long way. Applications can be made in living areas where the stink bugs are being seen. Esfenvalerate is labeled for use on carpeting for fleas so it's Ok to use inside. And though it won't be as easy to apply as the aerosol formulations, it will work fine. If you have further questions or concerns, give us a call on our toll free 1-800-877-7290 line.
Filed under stink bugs by
We have a gnat that is flying around our house inside and making our lives miserable, they bite our eyes, nose, hair, ears in fact I believe they are biting alll over now, in the house everywhere .
We found a squirrel had been in our attic, could they have brought these mites or gnats with them, they have been captured by a critter control company, they got one..then they put delta dust in my attic…this did not help whats in the house, used D-force HPX and also prevecort ( I think thats the word) all to no avail..
Can you suggest something we can use to eliminate these horrible pest that are making our lives miserable. we reside in Florida, also notice white specks in our car on the dash board, we clean them off and within hours they are back on the dash.
There are several kinds of gnats that can get inside any house which might behave the way you describe. Some are attracted to moisture, like fungus gnats, and will readily fly into your eyes and nose or on food. However, these don't bite and for the most part, they're just a big annoyance. You can read more about them on our FUNGUS GNAT CONTROL post.
Biting gnats can be more of a problem. They're typically bigger, faster flying than fungus gnats but even worse because they bite. Our GNAT CONTROL article explains all you'll need to know about them but in general, they don't become a major problem inside homes as much as they are a problem outside around the home so I'm not sure it's this you have.
Regardless of which one it might be, the organic FLYING INSECT KILLER used as needed in the home will kill them off as they appear. But as our online articles explain, if you don't find the nest site, in most cases the gnats will keep coming back. For that reason, it's not unusual to be spraying quite a bit if you rely on manually applying the product. To reduce the amount of effort you put out, consider getting one of the METERED AEROSOL MACHINES which are automatic and quite effective. Just set them up throughout the house and depending on the setting you use, refills should last 1-2 months.
As for the white specks you're finding on your dashboard; that's a mystery based on the limited information I have. To further help, you'll need to give our office a call at 1-800-877-7290. At that point we'll be able to ask some more questions and maybe get to the bottom of this problem as well.
Filed under gnats by
How does your copper wool/mesh work as a physical barrier to control ants entering structures through weep holes? Please advise.
Thank you.
Weep holes can be found on most any brick home and quite commonly on other types of structures too. For obvious reasons, any "hole" that leads to an interior wall void of a structure tends to increase the potential for a pest problem to develop. In my estimation, weep holes account for a lot more problems than realized. In fact, I've seen termites, wasps, roaches, crickets, earwigs, millipedes, ants and many other invasive pests take advantage of this "open door" to what amounts to a great nest site: wall voids where it's nice and warm, shady, moist and protected! Yet it's not likely we'll see less utilization of weep hole design in residential homes anytime soon and though there has been some attempts at making them insect proof, for the most part they still represent one of the most likely places for invasive pests to enter a structure. More importantly, the "purpose" of any weep hole is really at fault. Think about it: weep holes are designed to release water. And what is it that most invasive pests seek? Moisture (water). Safe harborage. Darkness aka shade. Basically everything a weep hole can provide!
Which brings me to your inquiry about using our COPPER WOOL as an ant barrier. The simple answer is yes; when weep holes are stuffed with copper wool ants are not able to enter. However, we don't recommend using it for this purpose. Having tried this and a few other products over the years, I have found anytime weep holes are effectively stuffed with something intended to let the water flow but not let insects enter, the end result is a clogged weep hole. And though this might not happen for 3-6 months or even longer following the installation, the problems associated with a clogged weep hole far outweigh keeping them open and vulnerable to insects. For this reason we don't feel comfortable telling people to "stuff" or try to block weep holes. Remember, it only takes one instance of water retention to have a big impact on the structure (in a negative way) and anytime you use any type of a "barrier" in the weep hole itself, there will always be a chance of this happening.
Now with that being said, if you feel you are willing to inspect and replace the Copper Wool on a regular basis, it might be an option for you. The key here is being able to remember and check the placements every 3 months (quarterly) to make sure all is well. This routine will greatly improve the chance of you being able to avoid any blockage and if you do have some weep holes that are getting clogged, you'll be able to take care of them more frequently once their identified.
Another option to consider is the use of NOSEEUM SCREENING. This light window screen replacement is inexpensive, very easy to work with and won't clog nearly as fast as the copper wool. Additionally, it can effectively be used in a different method which works well. By fitting it over weep holes you can "glue" it to the structure and not "stuff" the hole. This technique works well for the more traditional weep holes, the kind that are between bricks in place of mortar, where there is a nice big gap. First, cut the screeing to be slightly oversized compared to the hole so you have about 1/2" overlap of the screening over the hole. Next, apply a thin coat of silicon to the outer edge of the screening and then lay it over the weep hole. Hold it in place till it sets up and the end result is a type of patch that will let out water but keep insects out. The silicone will both hold the screening in place for a long time yet is easy to remove if the screening needs to be replaced. Noseeum screening can also be used as a type of "cap" placed over the "tube type" weep holes commonly deployed these days. Clearly sticking copper wool up into this type of weep hole should not be done but capping it with the noseeum screening is Ok and a good way to keep bugs out with the water still able to drain.
In summary, weep holes serve a function that shouldn't be ignored. Water will consistently get behind house siding and if there wasn't a way for it to escape, all kinds of damage could result from lack of drainage. But these drain lines are one of the most common routes of entry for many pests and though plugging them up seems logical, in the end it can create more of a problem. If you have large weep holes with big gaps that can fit the copper wool, it will do a good job of keeping out pests. But this should only be done if the homeowner is willing to inspect them quarterly making sure none are getting clogged. Alternatively, noseeum screening will do a better job and though not as easy to install, you can get much longer performance from a single installation with a lot less risk. If you have further questions about any of the products discussed, give us a call on our toll free 1-800-877-7290 and one of our tech reps should be able to further assist.
Filed under weep holes by
Do you have an organic bugspray I can use in my kitchen? I'm seeing a small tiny flies around the garbage pail. Also the recycling bin. They're really tiny and I can smash them easy but they just keep coming. I don't know where from but every day I'll see them every time I get close to the area.
The best organic spray for use inside the home is the FLYING INSECT KILLER. It has no real residual which means it will be gone minutes after you spray it so it's totally organic. It's one of the safest sprays to use in the home and poses no hazard to plants or people when used properly as are most all of the products listed on the NON TOXIC PEST CONTROL site. But it does work quickly and it will do a good job on many insects including flies so it's a good spray to start with for your problem. Basically you would just need to keep the spray handy and ready to use because you'll need to use on a regular basis. I would recommend spraying as needed throughout the day whenever you see these tiny flies. If you keep killing all the ones you find eventually you could break their life cycle and they'll disappear.
If you find the problem lingers longer than you'd like, you may have to use something stronger than the organic spray. A step up that's still very safe to use would be the GENTROL AEROSOL. Gentrol is a growth regulator and not a true insecticide by any traditional definition. In fact, Gentrol won't kill anything. So how does it work? It's basically a juvenile growth like protein that affects young flies and other insects when they're young and growing. Basically the concept of the Gentrol spray is that by overexposing insects to this protein they're not able to fully grow or properly mature. The end result is that they cannot become reproducing adults. This will effectively break their life cycle and though it takes longer to see results, it's a very effective approach and works well for roaches, pantry pests and flies along with other common household pests.
In summary, if you are able to identify just where these tiny flies are nesting, you should be able to stop the infestation quickly. These tiny guys are most likely drain flies or fungus flies as both love to nest in and around kitchens, garbage bins and other moist areas in the home. The good news is they're easy to control with a little patience and the right product applied at the right location. If you still have questions or other concerns, give us a call on our toll free 1-800-877-7290 and I'm sure we'll be able to help.
Filed under tiny bugs by
I have tiny, tiny ants, hardly visible and have tried Terro, and an ant & roach spray. They are in my kitchen, around my stove and microwave. I would appreciate any advice from you as to how to get rid of them. Thank you.
Ant problems are generally best treated by using bait inside where you see them and spraying the outside only. As explained in our ANT CONTROL article, spraying inside will tend to create more of a problem. Since most all sprays will kill quickly, the ants you spray will die and this alerts the rest of the colony that there is something wrong. The end result is that they'll stay away from the treated area and just appear somewhere else. And many times this reappearance is actually a new nest created by the "separation" of the colony caused directly by the liquid spraying done to the few foraging workers you saw.
Since you've already sprayed inside, I fear you've created some satellite nest "budding" and at this time probably have multiple nests active. And once this happens, baiting is not nearly as effective. But what is effective is a new spray that takes a long time to work. PT-PHANTOM is an aerosol you can use that has proven highly effective on most any insect including ants. Because it takes several days to have an impact, treated areas will go unnoticed. Additional benefits are that it's odorless and when applied properly, is pretty much a "dry" aerosol. Ants typically will walk over treatments without concern or being afraid; they don't even know it's there. And while walking on treated surfaces they'll be picking up the active ingredient. Upon returning to their colony, they'll be "sharing" the chemical with other members of the nest. The end result is usually devasting and before they know what's happening, the nest will be shut down.
I suggest you go with this product since you've already sprayed inside. I'm certain a good application throughout all the rooms in the house will lay down a good residual so that no matter where they appear, they'll surely walk over a treated area. Within 1-2 weeks, all nests will be affected and should shut down. This spring and summer you'll need to get on the Ant Control program detailed in our article link above and if you stay with the outside treatments over the course of the summer, you should be able to keep them out of the home for good. If you have further questions or concerns, please give us a call on our toll free 1-800-877-7290.
Filed under tiny ants by
Hi, I have a springtail infestation in my red worm compost bin. (At least I think they're springtails. They look like translucent white lice or mites, very tiny and crawly). Can I kill the springtails without hurting my worms?
Thanks!
Having raised worms myself, there were always two problems I encountered. 1) PH. It seemed as though the PH would always get low and very acidic over time. Undoubtedly this is related to the constant decomposition of organic matter and because it was such a small area, the PH was affected more rapidly compared to the surrounding dirt. 2) Insects. Again, most likely due to the moisture and organic matter ever present, it seemed as though my worm bin would attract all kinds of pests. To deal with these two problems, I rotated my soil as needed. I basically kept a trash can full of ready to use dirt which was both insect free and ph balanced and would replace my bin dirt when a change was due.
How often did I do this? That varied depending on the season. I commonly had to change the dirt once or twice during the summer months and rarely over the winter. All told, 1-2 a year. The dirt I removed was usually so rich in nutrients even though it had a PH problem and insect infestations, I knew I had to come up with some way to save it. Here's what I did.
First, I would kill off all the active insects. For obvious reasons I removed my worms prior to spraying. Next, I would lay out the old dirt on a tarp and then spray INSECT SOAP all over it making sure to get it well covered and damp. This would pretty much kill all the insects. The Soap I linked to above is organic and basically has no residual. This means that within a few hours of spraying it, all the spray will have broken down and been rendered harmless so it won't pose a hazard to the worms when I went to use the dirt again. In other words, there was no residual like you normally have with any pesticide. Soap is great for garden pests and anything sensitive you need to treat like worm bin soil.
Second, for the PH, I would use some LIQUID LIME and spray the dirt again. This would raise the PH pretty quickly and within a day I would measure it using my PH SOIL TESTER. Once the PH was up to at least 7.0 I would store the dirt in a trash can and keep it till I needed it again. More information can be found at our SOIL PH CONTROL site.
I definitely don't recommend spraying anything onto the soil with the worms present and though a few insects aren't a major problem, springtails, mealybugs, roaches, ants and others are just not good to let live. They tend to get out of control population wise and if your worms are close to your house or some other structure, these insects will almost certainly start migrating into living areas. If you keep these pests in check by rotating the soil periodically and with a little treating, you should be able to both keep the insects under control and your worms safe, happy and healthy. If you have further questions or concerns, give us a call on our toll free 1-800-877-7290.
Filed under springtails by
I want to get rid of silverfish and have two questions.
1) I was considering spreading Niban FG in a wide-open, unobstructed attic for silverfish control (I don't know how many or where they are nesting, but thought that a this treatment, together with the treatment below may take care of it). Based on the photo, it seems like the particles are large enough that they might be spread using a Scotts hand held broadcast spreader (sold in lawn and garden centers). Would this work or would a Dustin Mizer do a much better job (throw the particles further or more uniformly).
2) I was considering also applying an insecticide in liquid form (using a pressure sprayer) over the entire floor area of the attic (unfaced fiberglass), just slightly wetting the surface. Can you recommend an insecticide for this purpose?
Thanks in advance.
As explained in our SILVERFISH CONTROL ARTICLE, it's best to use bait in wide open areas where silverfish are being seen. Since you're unsure where they're coming from, it's definitely easier trying to lure them to a bait compared to trying to get every entry point covered with a spray.The NIBAN is excellent for this use and may be the right choice for the wide open area you mention above in section 1).
That being said, if you don't have too many areas that lead into that room, you could opt to treat with some PT-PHANTOM. This is a new compound, slow acting and odorless, which has the unique feature of appearing "dry" when applied. This makes it well suited to use inside compared to wet or liquid sprays like you'd get when using our ESFENVALERAT'E CONCENTRATE. So for the second part of your question, in 2), I'd say to use the Phantom which will effectively eliminate any "wetness" issue where sprayed and do a great job in the long run. I use it on my boat for spider control and it's ideal for the shiny surface of the deck. You don't even know it's been applied and within minutes of the application it's dry and pretty much invisible. This feature will enable you to treat the area thoroughly and avoid overspray.
Lastly, it will really help if you're somehow able to identify where these guys are originating. Getting them in their "nest sites" is always the best approach and in the long run will make total control an achievable goal. If you have further questions or concerns, please give us a call on our toll free 1-800-877-7290.
Filed under silverfish by
I live in the Northeast so we have snow right now till spring. Last summer I noticed a skunk coming out from under my sun porch which is attached to the back of my kitchen. It is an enclosed porch but not a year round only in the summer months. We have skunks all over our neighborhood, they wonder all over. At night you can watch them from the front of my house. My house always smells like skunk in the summer even in the inside especially in the basement, it seems to be getting worse. The whole neighborhood smells on so many nights. What would you suggest I buy? Should I buy the ultra sound? Will they leave their home under my sun porch? I have no pets just our woodchucks that live far in the back of the yard. We don’t mind Chucky and his family they don’t bother us, just have one hole in our yard. Can I plug a unit on the sun porch? I have electrical outlets out there but will the sound go through the vinyl floor. Last year I threw moth balls under there but didn’t any good. Will the device bother Chucky?
Help I don’t want another summer like last year. Thanks.
Skunks are quite active in upstate New York and it sounds like there are plenty in your neighborhood. If in fact they've been living under your sun porch it wouldn't surprise me if their odor has made it inside. To stop this from happening will require some action on your behalf. And once you get rid of the skunks you should consider treating the area with some skunk odor remover to insure the smell won't return next summer.
The first thing which needs to be done is for you to make this area uncomfortable for any skunks coming around or nesting. Hopefully this will cause them to move away. I would start with the YARD GARD ULTRA SOUND DEVICE we have listed in our SKUNK CONTROL ARTICLE. You don't state if there the sun porch is built up off the ground or if it's on a slab and this will affect your course of action. If there is a slab and the skunk has moved under it, you will have to set the Ultra Sound device up just outside the entry to his den (the space under the porch). This means you'll need to learn if there is more than one or two entry points to the ground under the slab. Once found, the installation of a Yard Gard right at the entrance will help to deter any animal that would try to take harborage in this area. If there are several entrance ways, you may need more than one unit to get them all covered.
If there is a crawl space up under the porch, position the Yard Gard on one side so it projects the sound out over the area. In this situation, 1 unit should do the job.
I also suggest 1-2 units around the home to deter other skunks from the surrounding area. In the long run, this should prevent anymore from trying to move back in once you've chased away the current population.
If the skunks are so comfortable in this area and refuse to leave, you'll have no choice but to trap them out as explained in our article. This can sometimes happen but there is no way to tell by inspection only; you really must have the Ultra Sound units installed to see if they'll be effective since every animal is different. In most cases, they will not tolerate direct sound blasting firing at them all the time. When set with the AC Adaptor for power, the Yard Gard will sound off around the clock and this noise is bothersome to them. And since you'll be directing the sound to the area under the porch, it's not likely to have any affect on the woodchucks you mention unless you installed it really close to where they're living. As explained, this sound is highly directional so just keep it pointed away from the woodchucks and they won't know it's there.
Unfortunately Ultra Sound does not penetrate well and stands little chance of making it's way through the floor. For this reason it's not possible to repel them by setting the unit up inside. Fortunately the Yard Gard is the both the strongest and the most weather resistant so it should perform well outside where you'll need to have them installed.
Lastly, once the skunks have left the area, treat with the NNZ or N7C we have listed in the article. It does a great job of neutralizing the skunk odor and if you're able to get it right on top of where the skunks are nesting, the odor will be eliminated for good.
If you have further questions, please give us a call on our toll free 1-800-877-7290.
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