0

do you sell a product that eliminates cicada killers in the lawn ?
they come back every year and seem to multiply.
thanks

If you read through our CICADA KILLER CONTROL article, you'll learn this pest is dormant most of the year. But as soon as the local cicada's hatch out and get active each summer, the cicada killer wasps will soon follow. As we explain in our article, the key to controlling this pest is to treat their nests with the CYPERMETHRIN we have listed in the article. You'll need to drench the nest good to kill off all the adults so make sure you know where all the nests are located. Allow for the treatment to work by waiting 3-4 days to see if they are still around. If you're not sure where all the nests are located, you may broadcast the treatment over the top of the soil. This treatment should be done now, while you're seeing them, and you should do it in the evening thus insuring most all will back at their nests when you treat.

If you still see activity a week later, treat again. The goal here is to kill all the active adults so you won' t have any around laying eggs. However, it's highly likely they've already laid some eggs. These are what will cause future infestations so it's imperative you do followup treatments to eliminate them for good. About 1-2 months following your initial treatment you should go ahead and broadcast some more Cypermethrin over the area to intercept any hatching larvae. Do this followup treatment over the same area they were once active. The goal here is to have the Cypermethrin funnel down into the soil thus affecting and killing any larvae which may still be active.

Lastly, plan on treating again next spring. At least one treatment next May or June will help make sure there are no more developing larvae. If you do a thorough job, the problem will be gone for good. If you missed any developing young, you might see a nest or two next summer. Treat it the same way and ultimately you should be able to get control of the problem. Most people only kill the adults with some type of WASP FREEZE and by not treating the ground where they nest with the Cypermethrin the cycle will go on and on indefinitely. Follow these directions and you'll be able to rid yourself of this pest for good.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Cicada Killer Control Article:  http://www.bugspray.com/articles99/cicadakillers.html

Cypermethrin:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page519.html

Wasp Freeze:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page517.html

Filed under how to eliminate by  #

0

What's the best product to kill bag worms on an Alberta Spruce?   We have been picking them off and  putting in a plastic bag and disposing of them as well as spraying a liquid insecticide; however, we can't seem to get rid of them.  I heard that Sevin is good?  Can you help?  Thanks!

If you read through our BAGWORM CONTROL article, you'll see we have three concentrates we recommend. Overall the best choice is the BIFEN IT and it should be used when treating plants other than those found in a vegetable garden. Your Spruce trees would be such a plant; go with the Bifen for the fastest and longest lasting residual.

Be sure to add some SPREADER STICKER to the tank mix and do your applications either early in the morning or close to dark. This will avoid hurting the trees since we're in the middle of the summer and in many parts of the country the temps are extremely high.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Bagworm Control:  http://www.bugspray.com/article/bagworm.html

Bifen IT:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/bifenit.html

Spreader Sticker:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/spreadersticker.html

Filed under how to kill by  #

0

We live in northwest Montana. Our home faces west less than a mile from a lake. Bats have taken up residence on the timbers above our vaulted picture windows 20 feet above the deck and 30 feet above the ground. They are pooping and/or peeing all over our picture windows. How do we get them to move into a bat house and leave our house alone? How do we know what size house to purchase from you? Any suggestions will be appreciated. Thank you!

If you review our BAT CONTROL ARTICLE, you'll find we have several options that can be used. The first would be to install some of the SCREENING over the area so they won't be able to access it. This would provide immediate results and there is a good chance they'll move away from your home for good.

Additionally, you can install a BAT HOUSE on the timbers where they're roosting in such a way that they cannot actually get to where they've been but instead can only access the bat house. If you take some of their bat guano (droppings) and smear it on the bat house landing pad and up inside it a little, the house will take on their colonies odor. This will help make them think some of their colony has been using it and will get them to at least investigate the prospect of using the house as a new roost site.

As for the size of the house to get; the 2 CHAMBER MEDIUM is always a good starting house. It can house 25-50 bats comfortably and this should be plenty big. If you had more bats you'd know for sure as they would be visible throughout the evening hours. Most colonies are 25 or less and in all likelihood that will be where your colony size too.

As a last resort, you may opt to install one of the ULTRA SOUND DEVICES we have listed for bats which will effectively drive them away for good. Installing one of these units below the infested area and pointed up at where they're roosting would prove to be a very effective way to get rid of them. The only drawback of this approach is that you'll no doubt scare them away for good and thus loose the advantage of having them around to eat mosquitoes.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Bat Control Article:  http://www.bugspray.com/articles98/bats.html

Bat Screening:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page212.html

Bat House:  http://www.bugspray.com/#bat%20houses

2 Chamber Medium Bat House:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/bats/medium_bat_house.html

Ultra Sound Repellers:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page1357.html

Filed under bat droppings by  #

0

Hi,
We are having a problem with the cicada killers as they are taking the cicadas in a space between the edge of our pool and the concrete walkway.We have an in the ground pool and the rails all around have the pool have a space and it seems to be the favorite place for them to go. The children are scared because they fly around the gate that we enter to get to the pool and then at times they bring the cicadas and if the cicadas are too big to fit in the space they leave them there. We pick the cicada up and put it out in a wooded area.We have put sticks around the front end of the pool but they move them also.The walls of our pool are concrete but we are afraid to use anything to spray because we don't know if it will seep into the walls and cause a problem. What do you suggest we do to rid us of these summer pests.   Thanks for any help you can give us.

As explained in our CICADA KILLER CONTROL ARTICLE, this giant wasp is feeding on the hatching cicada's no doubt active throughout your neighborhood. Trying to block them won't do a thing as they are both big and strong. But a liquid treatment with the CYPERMETHRIN listed in our article will kill all the nests and the problem will be gone in one day if you use enough and distribute it where it matters.

As you can see on the product page for the Cypermethrin, you'll only be mixing 1 oz per gallon of water so there is no way you can "hurt" your pool. In cases like this, the best approach is to wait till late evening around dusk. This assures all the adults will be back at the nest and settled in for the night. If the crack is large enough to pour a finished solution directly through the crack, I'd do the treatment using a bucket. Alternatively, you can remove the spray nozzle of most any pump sprayer and use it for the treatment too. Removing the nozzle insures a heavy dose of liquid will flow unobstructed so you'll soak the nest quickly and thoroughly. Be sure to use enough solution and I suggest treating as many cracks surrounding the main ones. This will help prevent any nest from moving or relocating following the treatment. I expect you'll need 1-2 gallons applied to insure a good treatment is done.

If you do it right the first time, there is no reason why you can't kill off all the nests immediately. You should expect to see instant results and if you note any activity the following day, treat those areas again the following evening. Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Cicada Killer Control Article:  http://www.bugspray.com/articles99/cicadakillers.html

Cypermethrin:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page519.html

Filed under how to treat by  #

0

To Whom It May Concern:

I found your article through a Google search.

We have a fireplace insert from which a very foul smell is coming. I believe there is a dead animal behind the unit which is inaccessible. Are the products Foaming Agent Termitafoam or Odor Destroyer safe to use in an area where there will be a fire? The fireplace has been converted to gas (LP).

Thank You for your assistance.

M.D.

As explained in our ODOR CONTROL article. It's always best to remove any dead body from voids and spaces in the home when trying to reduce the odor associated with it's natural decay and decomposition. This will help in the long run enabling the odor control solutions we recommend to work faster, more efficiently and without having to constantly battle a new supply of odor molecules. In fact fire place inserts are a common route of entry for many animals like squirrels, flying squirrels, roof rats, snakes and birds. Once inside they'll be trapped and in most cases die quickly. This is most common in the summer months when temperatures can soar to quite high.

In most cases the animal will end up landing on top of the flue flap, just above the hearth, and can many times be reached by hand. Have you looked or felt this area to see if there is a body within reach? If so, don some safety equipment like a good RESPIRATOR a pair of NITRILE GLOVES and a FACE MASK. Once properly dressed, go ahead and reach up attempting to remove as much of the animal as possible. This will really help make the process of odor removal a lot easier.

If you're not able to "find" anything above the flue and if you look up it from the hearth and the inside appears to be "clear", it could be the animal has died between the flue and the outside siding. Commonly referred to as the fireplace frame or chimney box, this space can many times become the final resting place of many animals. Generally inaccessible from the inside or the outside, anything that falls in there and dies can be a lingering problem unless you're able to gain access to remove it. I've dealt with many such problems and sometimes removing the very bottom of the "box" is all that's needed. From that point you can sometimes remove the animal if it fell all the way down. But sometimes they get stuck mid way between the top and bottom and if that happens, you must somehow cut access through the side of the firebox for a direct "reach in" approach. The last resort can be from the top to use a "drop line" removal system. Reaching in from the bottom or side is always preferred since it usually means you'll be able to remove as much of the animal as possible using your hands. Gaining access from above usually means using a drop line with a hook attached to it. This can turn out to be a tedious, time consuming and down right messy way to remove the animal but in some cases the only choice. Regardless, doing so will make the chore of odor removal that much easier.

Once you've either located the dead animal and know it's the inside or the outside of the flue that needs to be treated, you may proceed with the NNZ treatment. This can be done without concerns of a fire hazard being created. Directly spraying the area would be ideal yielding the best overall result. But if needed, you may inject the space using our FOAMING TOOL with some FOAMING AGENT. This won't present a hazard either if allowed to dry thoroughly prior to the area being used as a fireplace again.

In the end, the best results will always be achieved when the area where the animal has been lying is sprayed after the animal is removed. This will be true whether it's actually in the fireplace insert, the chimney box or some place in between.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Odor Control Article:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page200.html

Respirator:  http://www.bugspray.com/item/287191.html

Nitrile Gloves:  http://www.bugspray.com/item/nitrile_gloves.html

Face Mask:  http://www.bugspray.com/item/face_shield_kit.html

NNZ:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page884.html

Foaming Tool:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page885.html

Foaming Agent:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page886.html

Filed under foul odor by  #

0

Wow.  I would not have believed it if I didn't see it for myself.  Within 5 minutes, we caught 3 chipmunks in our three Havahart traps with your Pecan Bait.

Your stuff is great.  We have about twenty more to go, but I can see success in the future.

T. B.
Bridgewater, MA

Thanks for the positive feedback! No doubt if you bait your CHIPMUNK TRAP as we explain and show in our CHIPMUNK CONTROL ARTICLE, you'll be catching them in no time. They just seem to love the smell of that PECAN PASTE and if you follow the guidelines we have on  how to make the set, you should be able to catch any small animal.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Chipmunk Trap:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/traps/chipmunk_traps.html

Chipmunk Control Article:  http://www.bugspray.com/articles98/chipmunks.html

Pecan Paste:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page402.html

Filed under great results by  #

0

Will your triple pyrethrum shampoo kill seed ticks on my puppy and how do you get them to fall off?

As explained in our TICK CONTROL article, most ticks are reluctant to let go of their host. In this case that would be your puppy. The use of products like TRIPLE PYRETHRIN SHAMPOO or PETCOR can really help. They'll get the ticks to release and eventually kill them. That's because the Pyrethrin is extremely irritable to most any pest and ticks hate it.

Use the Triple Pyrethrin Shampoo to bath your pet every 1-2 weeks. use the Petcor as needed. This could be a couple of times a week if you keep finding ticks and if that keeps happening, consider doing some of the treatments outlined in our article. Reducing the ticks around the yard is really the best overall way to solve the problem and in doing so, you'll note a lot less getting on you pet.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Tick Contrl:  http://www.bugspray.net/catalog/products/page2.html

Triple Py Shampoo:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page2249.html

Petcor:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page2248.html

Filed under tick question by  #

0

Dear Sirs,

We have been inundated with chipmunks this year in my county. I went on-line and found your site. I ordered the Live Trap and Pecan 8oz along with Chipmunk PP.

At first I was disappointed because the cage in the demo video I watched had a rear release door. So I guess I bought the wrong one. When I watched the demo video I thought that the preparation was a little much.

However, because I watched the video and because I followed the instructions from the video I was successful in capturing six of these chipmunks so far still working on eliminating the problem. I found out that these critters are very cautious. Now I understand the reason for the baiting procedure. I had one chipmunk go in and out of the trap multiple times over a period of three hours and eat everything out of the plastic bowl three times before he would venture in further for the Pecan Surprise. He got his surprise!

I want to thank you and your company for a great product and good instructions.

A Happy Customer in New York.

Thanks for the great feedback. No doubt there is a certain amount of "science" that one needs to apply if they want consistent results. It's really just establishing a pattern then duplicating it. Our CHIPMUNK CONTROL ARTICLE covers a lot of options but in the end, live trapping is probably the most effective. And even though you may have ordered the wrong trap as you can see if we include it as one to use, it will work.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Green Live Trap:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page2203.html

Pecan Paste:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page402.html

Rear Release Door Live Trap:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page404.html

Chipmunk Article:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page398.html

Filed under chipmunk problems by  #

0

I have a big problem with ear wigs eating my zinnias. I tried dust, bugs spray but no luck. Please let me know what can I used to get rif of this pest.
Thank you
A.O.

This is an easy one. There are many insects that will target specific plants for a wide range of reasons. There are two approaches which work well on this pest; one is the direct "spray" method and the other is a baiting program.

If you prefer to spray, the strongest option would be a 1-2 punch. First, set out BIFEN GRANULES on the ground under the zinnias as well as around all the turf in the area. Don't just treat the flower bed but instead cover a good 5,000 sq/ft area. Next, spray over the top with the CONQUER EC making sure to get the plants good and soaked. This insures no earwigs will be missed while hiding in the plant leaves, stems and flower buds. This is something earwigs do well and can many times escape the treatment altogether.

The organic equivalents to these two pesticides will be gentler but they won't last as long. In place of the Bifen you can apply some ECO GRANULES and in place of the Conquer, spray some BUG PATROL. Both will take care of this pest just as fast but they won't last as long so try and treat at least once a month to insure they don't return. If you use the Bifen and Conquer, you'll be able to space out applications to every 2-3 months.

The second method involves nothing but a bait. NIBAN FG can be sprinkled on the flower buds and around the plants directly on and throughout the flower bed. It's got boron as the active and earwigs love the stuff. They'll readily consume it and within a day or two die after eating it. The bait is highly effective on crickets, roaches, ants and earwigs. But you can't use it where you want to spray so you must choose one or the other. Baiting is probably easier to do but you will have to wait a lot longer to get results compared to spraying. Also, the bait can be contaminated by other factors like rain so if you're irrigating your flowers regularly, be sure to renew the bait more often. The spray options will hold up better to regular watering schedules so be sure to take this into consideration when choosing.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Bifen Granules:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page591.html

Conquer EC:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page586.html

ECO Granules:  http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/granules/eco-exempt-granules

Bug Patrol:  http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/concentrates/bug-patrol-rts

Niban FG:  http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/bait/niban

Filed under how to stop by  #

0

Read your online article on mold control. I appreciate your in depth discussion of the subject.

I have some mold inside my walls (45 year old tract house) in a couple of spots: behind the kitchen sink (worst case), between the bathrooms, and some in the north outside wall (minor).

Can Mold Blaster and Boracare be mixed? Will one or the other cover most possible infestations?

I expect to address this stuff in the next six months or so. I haven't watched your video as my home computer is down and I can't take the time at work; also, I have no audio at work.

Thanks, L.S.

Laguna Niguel, California

If you go back to our article, you'll see the last section deals with MOLD CONTROL IN WALL VOIDS pretty well. In that section you'll learn there is no need to use both products. In general, the MOLD BLASTER would be applied to areas with nothing much but surface mold due to moisture sources coming from outside the void. Alternatively, if you're not able to control the moisture and you have wood inside the wall you're concerned about getting damaged, use the BORACARE. Since both will kill mold the only major difference between them is that the Boracare lasts a lot longer and will effectively protect the wood structure; Boracare will last 5 yrs or more in a wall void where as the Mold Blaster is gone within a week of applying it. Most importantly, you won't be getting any protection of the wood with just the Mold Blaster.

An example of why you'd use one or the other would be the following scenario: Lets say you had a roof leak which lead to water getting inside your wall. This leak wasn't easy to see and only after it leaked for a month or two did you note any damage in the living area. Upon repairing the wall board you then found mold inside the void. At that point you realized there was a leak above and ultimately it was traced to the roof. The leak was then fixed which means there won't be an ongoing supply of moisture to the area. In this case using the Mold Blaster would be adequate. It would kill the mold, the wall could be sealed back up again and the problem would be resolved.

Lets use the same scenario but in this example lets change the source of leak. Let's say upon discovering the wall getting damaged you opened it up, found mold but no real source of moisture. After careful inspection, it was determined the air space would always be a threat to mold due to poor air circulation in the home or some other reason that could not be controlled. In this case the Boracare would clearly be the way to go. It would both kill the existing mold and last 5 years or more in the wall providing long term protection for all the wood inside the space. This would save the structure from getting any important damage and obviously would be a more substantial treatment. Additionally, if you felt there could be more mold growing in adjacent voids around the room,  you could treat them by using the FOAM TOOL APPLICATOR This tool could be used to inject the Boracare without having to open up the walls and enable you to treat a large area without a large mess.

So in summary, the Mold Blaster costs a lot less than Boracare because it's not nearly as complete of a product. And based on this difference, you should choose one or the other for the spaces you described above. Since you didn't mention the source of the moisture, it's unclear if the mold will be a threat to return but if it is, go with the Boracare so you won't have to treat again and again.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Mold Control Article:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page1621.html#E

Mold Blaster:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page1642.html

Boracare:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page1643.html

Foam Applicator:  http://www.gotosprayer.com/sprayers/foamers/solo-2-gallon-foamer

Filed under how to treat by  #

0

I’m a farmer. One of my tractors sat for about two weeks this spring. During that time a female mouse got under the seat cushion and had her babies. When I used the tractor again I sat on her and killed her and her babies.  It took awhile to find the source of the odor. She and her family have been removed. There  was plastic under her so all of the smell is in the seat cushion. She didn’t physically destroy any of the seat and it is in otherwise good shape. ( a new seat cushion is $388) Would the ODOR DESTROYER product be the item to use.

Thank you

R.W.

Based on the description of the problem, I think you'd get both faster and better results if you went with the NNZ over the Odor Destroyer. Though the odor destroyer can handle a range of smells including decaying animals, it's not nearly as effective on this particular scent as the NNZ. I'm afraid this problem might be so ingrained on the seat so thoroughly it would be best to get the best option and that would be the NNZ.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Odor Destroyer:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page94.html

NNZ:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page884.html

Filed under best odor product by  #

0

Hello,

I have an investation of the "Stink Beetle(s)" in my vegetable garden & experience the same problem every year.  This year they appear to be worst & my guess is that we're having a very hot & dry summmer thus far.

My questions for you pertaining to your product "Vegetables Plus Permethrin" are:

* Are my vegetables safe for my family to eat after using your product?
* Is there anyway to treat the soil both in the winter & spring months to kill the Stink Beetle prior to gardening season?
* I've in the past mixed a product called Selvin Dust with water & poured around plants to kill other insects when planting but the "Stink Bug" either isn't affected or they arrive later in the season.  Once they show up they kill my plants (Especially Squash plants) within days of my noticing their arrival.
* I'm especially interested in prevention prior to gardening season.  Do you have any recommendations?  Is it possible to treat the soil?  I have friends you live in the same county (Powhatan, Virginia, 23139) and aren't having problems with them.

Thanks,
L.

I am pretty sure you have stink bugs and not stink beetles for two reasons; one you mention stink bugs in the latter part of your inquiry and two, the true stink beetles only reside in the dessert and only a few states in the southwest. Also, the stinkbug lives and eats in the garden; stink beetles live in the dessert sand. To be 100% sure, check out our STINKBUG CONTROL ARTICLE which features a short video on the brown stinkbug found here on the east coast. There is also a green one that looks much the same but is green instead of brown. If that's not what you're seeing, let me know. But for now, I'm assuming that's the pest you mean and I will answer your questions based on this premise.

Now to answer your questions…

1) Your vegetables will absolutely be safe to consume following any treatment with our VEGETABLES PLUS PERMETHRIN. It has a 7-14 days to harvest label which is based on how long it lasts on treated plants so as long as you wait this time period, there is no risk to you or your family. We also offer some "organic" options that work quite well that are worth considering. They only have a 1 day to harvest since they're so safe and are approved for organic gardening so they'd be a viable option in case you're uncomfortable using the Vegetables Plus. The two we know work well is the MULTI INSECT KILLER and the 3 IN ONE SPRAY. Both can be seen on our Organic Site which offers nothing but alternative products which really work.

2) Treating the soil will no doubt help the problem so yes, treating with some BIFEN GRANULES around the home is a good idea. It will take care of most any perimeter invading pest and I like to use it at least twice a year at my house since it works so well. But as you'll learn in our Stinkbug article, this pest will many times reside on or in the home during the winter and if they're using your home to hibernate, you'll need to use some of the other products we have listed in our article to get them where they're residing. Remember, the house is much warmer than the ground and if your garden is close to the home, I'm sure some are hiding up under the siding of the home and this would be an important place to treat.

3) Sevin Dust is an "old school" product that's both smelly and not very good at controlling many pests. There is no surprise you experienced what you state above; we don't even sell it since the newer actives are so much more effective.

4) Again, treating the soil can and should be done. But don't stop there. If you have a home, shed, garage or some other structure close to the garden, I would be it too needs to be treated to get the over wintering stink bugs. This approach will yield better results in the long run for sure.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Stinkbug Control Article:  http://www.bugspray.com/article/stinkbug.html

Vegetables Plus Perm:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page1004.html

Multi Insect Killer:  http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/concentrates/3-in-1-fim-32-oz

3 In One Spray:  http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/concentrates/3-in-1-fim-32-oz

Bifen Granules:  http://www.bugspray.com/item/453410.html

Filed under stinkbugs by  #

0

Hello,

I have so many pillbugs in my basement. Could you tell me all of the things I would need to buy from you all to treat this problem both inside and outside. Thank you.

First, review our PILLBUG CONTROL ARTICLE. It will highlight everything you need to know about this pest including key treatment areas and tips on how to get rid of them for good. Pillbugs (also known as water bugs, sow bugs and rolly pollies) are easy to control with the right products. The one main product you'll use for them is the TALSTAR INSECTICIDE. It's odorless, easy to mix and lasts a month or more. You can use it inside and outside and for your initial treatment, you should go through at least 2-3 gallons to properly treat the entire area you need to get.

Next, set out some TALSTAR GRANULES around the home. Since pillbugs thrive in the mulch and soil adjacent to the home, it's imperative that you treat these areas to insure you get them at their source. By stopping them in these key reproduction sites, you'll indirectly be keeping them from gaining access to your home.

Lastly, keep some BAYGON AEROSOL in the home ready to spray in case you see any activity in between the liquid treatments.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Pillbug Article:  http://www.bugspray.com/articles99/pillbug.html

Talstar Liquid:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page645.html

Talstar Granules:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page643.html

Baygon:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page647.html

Filed under how to treat by  #

0

Springtails behave in a certain way that make them one of the most annoying and frustrating pests to control. There are many reasons why. First, I will list why they can be so frustrating. Second, I'll list some springtail facts so you can better understand this pest and last, I'll list what's most important when it comes to solving a local problem.

Why are springtail infestations so frustrating? Here is the short list…

  1. When springtails start to appear in your home, you're not seeing the "real" problem. Local treatments inside the home won't stop the invasion and if you've been spraying inside where you see them, you know exactly what I mean.
  2. Springtails can appear on freshly treated surfaces and you can't imagine how they can still be alive after all the spray you just applied!
  3. Springtails are a pest most service companies aren't prepared to handle. Consequently their treatments won't stop the problem and many times it will appear to make it worse. Additionally, there are many companies that refuse to even treat for this pest. But how can a treatment make the problem worse? This happens because many of the commonly used products these days act as flushing agents and when applied to the areas where the springtails are active, the chemical will both alert and flush springtails that aren't sprayed directly. The end result could be a mass exodus away from the spray which could route them inside the home.
  4. Springtails can invade by the thousands and they can do it quickly. Your home can become a mess in a matter of minutes once they emerge and many times this will happen at bad times (like when guests are visiting).
  5. Springtails are largely misunderstood so it's hard to get good answers when it comes to solving a local problem. This just adds to the frustration anyone with a problem can feel.
  6. Springtails will many times have established "paths" or what we call "exodus trails". These will be used over and over. Many times one house on the block or one building in a series can be the "end of the trail" so the net effect is a channeling of springtails from an acre or more to just one yard or home. Suffice to say this can be very frustrating to the person seemingly targeted!

Some springtail facts..

  1. Springtails nest down in the ground feeding on organic matter like dead plants, small microbes and anything recyclable.
  2. Springtails are the food of many insects. If you allow springtails to thrive on your property, they will most assuredly attract other pests like beetles, centipedes, roaches, ants, crickets and just about any other insect.
  3. Springtail problems start in dirt. They tend to live in topsoil where it's moist and damp. They love flower beds, lawns where grass clippings are recycled and left as mulch, up under pine bark, pine straw and most any wood chip bed as well as under rocks, slabs and any moist ground where it's both dark, shady and dank.
  4. Homes with basements usually have the top soil removed prior to the concrete being poured which can help keep them out of the home for a year or so after it's built. Slab homes have their concrete poured right on top of the springtails so within months of the home being built it will succumb to the springtail migrations and become infested. This is why so many new homeowners experience invasions and wonder how this can be happening to their new home.
  5. Springtails migrate when populations grow large or when they are attempting to move away from extreme heat, cold or moisture. This is when you start seeing them inside the home or up on the top of the ground. In fact, they will commonly migrate out of the ground in the winter during a warm period when the snow melts. At this time the saturated soil will cause them to rise up and out of the water where they'll appear on top of the snow. This may tend to happen at certain times of the year but in general, it will happen only when the population is large enough to support the migration and when it is capable, the conditions must exist to make them migrate. For these reasons you may see several migrations a year but then none the following year even though they are still present in the soil.
  6. Springtails will die once exposed and cannot live out in the open for any significant length of time.
  7. Springtails do not infest dressers, furniture, clothing, people, pets, rugs or anywhere out in the open where you see them. Again, all the springtails you see have left the confines of the ground nest seeking a new place to live and simply made a wrong turn. If left alone, they'll die. But if the problem area is left untreated, you'll continue to see them every time they migrate. Granted this might not happen much when your region is in a dry spell but when moisture abounds, so too will the springtails.
  8. There is no pesticide strong enough to stop them once they start invading. In other words, treating inside the home on top of baseboards, foundation walls, around door frames and windows won't stop them from getting inside. No doubt these treatments will help to prevent them from living out in the open as long as they might but again, they would naturally die anyway. But my point here is don't waste your time focusing on these areas; if you want stop them from entering the home, you'll need to treat the outside and in most cases this area will be both large and will require a lot of applications.

What will not work or help the problem!

  1. Simply spraying the inside of the home. This is a complete waste and though doing it won't hurt, it won't solve the problem.
  2. Spraying furniture, rugs, walls, attics, basements or crawl spaces.
  3. Washing your clothes, bedding, floors or countertops.
  4. Pouring bleach down the drain.
  5. Worrying about where they might be.

So then what is important if you want to control springtails?

  1. Moisture. First and foremost, springtails love moisture. When present, springtails will thrive. When absent, they dry up and disappear. Sometimes the moisture comes from excessive rainfall which you cannot control. Other times it comes from a neighbors sprinkler system which you probably still can't control. But your own watering can be controlled and if you aren't willing to reduce it, you'll need to treat the areas with some BIFEN GRANULES to keep it springtail free. An ongoing treatment regime will keep your soil springtail free and this alone is what will keep them out of the house.
  2. Flower beds, vegetable gardens, pine straw mulch piles, compost piles, potted plants, wood chip beds, grass clippings, leaves, weed barriers and just about anything that covers the ground can serve as a sort of "springtail oven" that will grow populations quickly if left untreated.
  3. When treating outside, don't think small; think big. In most cases, it's just about impossible to narrow down just where the springtails are coming from so don't try. Instead, use the "shotgun" approach and treat as much of the land surrounding the house as you can up to 10,000 sq/ft. After applying the Bifen Granules, spray out the CYONARA RTS. This 1-2 combination used monthly or even more in extreme cases will no doubt knock down the springtail population enough so there will be that many less to invade the home.
  4. Realize that any cement around the home like a patio, driveway, stoop, garage or shed can all be serving as a springtail haven. These slabs cover dirt, hold moisture, provide shade and when connected to the home present a direct way for migrating springtails to get inside to living areas. In some cases these areas will need to be treated as explained in our SPRINGTAIL CONTROL ARTICLE. This will be necessary to stop them from getting inside because again, if the population explodes so much and they start migrating, there is no chemical we have that will stop them cold in their tracks. That means you'll be subject to the invasion if you don't treat. And yes, the type of treatment needed in some of these situations is the drilling method explained in our article. Much like a termite job, by saturating the soil under the slabs with a chemical you can no doubt reach areas otherwise hidden and out of sight where problems can persist for many years. Tackling these areas are sometimes required for any long term control and springtail eradication but it's hard to say whether such extremes are needed at first. Only after you're sure you've treated all open and accessible areas should you try to cover these remote locations. But in some cases they must be treated somehow and the actual application can be tricky, time consuming and difficult. But if you're goal is to create a springtail free zone, you may have to go this route.
  5. Remove as much of the organic matter, ground cover and other springtail "enablers" around the home. Removing this material will indirectly reduce the moisture level which in turn will directly reduce the amount of springtails that can survive. Alternatively you can simply apply the Bifen Granules and Cyonara on a regular basis and these treatments alone will many times be enough to keep the numbers down.
  6. Seal any direct routes of entry into living areas. Common locations where they gain access include expansion joints in concrete, pipe entry ways through slabs and basement walls, electric line entry points,  in ground ventilation ducts and bathroom trap boxes where water and drain lines run. This is usually just under the faucet heads of the bath tub or shower stall.
  7. Fix any leaks on the home related to a bad water pipe, a poorly draining air conditioning unit or a leaky roof. Such areas can become secondary nest sites for migrating springtails that find their way inside and if you don't stop the moisture, you won't stop the springtails.

So in summary, if you currently have springtails invading, there is a really only one thing you need to do and that is to focus your attention on the outside of the home where they are likely breeding. If you treat all areas you stand the best chance of getting rid of them quickly. If you spot treat, there is a greater chance the problem will be ongoing since it's so easy to miss a spot or too.

If you have reason to believe they could be in your roofing due to a leak, treat there with the DELTAMETHRIN DUST or BAYGON AEROSOL. But these areas will become inhabitable once the moisture problem is stopped so in most cases they will require both a treatment and some mechanical work to fix the problem leading the nesting for long term control.

Be sure to read our SPRINGTAIL CONTROL article so you can better understand this pest and some of the other ways to treat and prevent their migrations from getting inside the home. Getting the outside will no doubt keep them from getting inside. And since their population no doubt took years to grow to this size, it's important to understand it will most likely take 6-12 months to reduce their population enough to make a difference so have patience. Lastly, if you still have questions, give us a call toll free at 1-800-877-7290 and one of our technical reps should be able to further assist.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Springtail Control Article:  http://www.bugspray.com/article/springtail.html

Bifen Granules: http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page719.html

Cyonara RTS:  http://www.bugspray.com/item/cyonara_rts.html

Deltamethrin Dust:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page723.html

Baygon Aerosol:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page725.html

Filed under Blog by  #

0

I was so impressed by your knowledge about flies!  I'm a human phernome for yellow flies, if there is one around, they will bite me 5 timess..and of course I'm allergic and the bites are sooo painful….do you know of any traps that will work outside at my campsite?

Thanks, E.

At this time there is no pheromone trap for yellow flies. However, a combination of AQUACIDE AEROSOL being sprayed around the camp site and then some CONCEAL CANDLES set up inside the area will reduce their numbers for sure. The Aquacide is both a repellent and a flying insect killer. Flies are very sensitive to it and will stay clear of areas where it's been applied.

The Candles tend to repel any biting pest including gnats, mosquitoes, noseeums and biting flies. Both can be used safely in these areas without posing a hazard to the people or environment.

Here are direct links to the products mentioned above:

Aquacide Aerosol:  http://www.bugspray.com/item/aquacide_aerosol.html

Conceal Candles:  http://www.bugspray.com/item/small_conceal_candle.html

Filed under yellow flies by  #

Login