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Hello,

I love the features of the product—ideal for conditioning cats. However, can this product be used to prevent access to a bedroom?

The STAY-AWAY is ideal for such an application. Set it out in front of the door and as the pet gets close, the blast of air released will cause it to turn around and leave quickly. In most cases, cats will learn within 1-3 encounters to "stay away".

Other devices we carry that can help train pets to stay out of a particular area or room in the home is the CAT STOPPER, the PET BOUNDARY, the TATTLE TALE ALARM and the SCAT MAT. All of these devices are meant to scare or repel animals and will not harm people or pets in any way. In our experience, cats have proven to learn a lot faster than dogs and their behavior can be modified as needed using any of these units.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Stay Away:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page2164.html

Cat Stopper:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page2163.html

Pet Boundary:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/repellents/sound/usd-pet-boundary

Tattle Tale Alarm:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page1454.html

Scat Mat:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page1437.html

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0

I live in Queens, NY and I moved into a new condo this year. It is on the 4th floor. When the weather started to get hot, these tiny black insects started appearing at night near my light. They are very small, ranging from maybe about 1-2mm. I usually see them crawl on the ceiling around the light. The few I found not on the ceiling would seem to hop around when I tried to squish them. I've resorted to vacuuming them whenever I see them. I vacuum maybe 20 or so throughout the night.

The other night I tried spraying Ortho Home Defense Max on all my windows, but it didn't seem to prevent them from showing up. I'm not really sure where they actually come from though. I have even resorted to keeping my windows closed, but that doesn't seem to prevent it either.

They don't seem to show up in any of the other rooms of my condo in large numbers, just my bedroom. There is a large terrace right outside of my room that used to leak into the apartment down below so they re-did the water sealing stuff (tar?) but haven't put in new tiles yet.

Here is a picture: http://img193.imageshack.us/img193/7295/whatisit.jpg

Based on the photo, it would appear you are seeing springtails. The photo in one our recent posts sure looks like an exact match of the photo link you sent:

http://www.bugspray.net/blog/springtail-picture.html

These guys love moisture and will commonly infest flat roof tops, decks, patios and from there make their way inside. To get rid of them will mean having to treat the terrace with some of the products listed in our SPRINGTAIL CONTROL ARTICLE. As you'll learn in our article, the only way to get rid of this pest is by treating them where they're nesting.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Springtail Control Article:  http://www.bugspray.com/article/springtail.html

Springtail Control Post:  http://www.bugspray.net/blog/springtail-infestations-and-where-to-treat.html

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0

What is a good food bait or lure to use for marmots?

Marmots feed mostly on greens and small insects. We have had good success with our leafy and green WOODCHUCK FOOD BAIT. Use the WOODCHUCK TRAILING SCENT to lure the marmots in by creating a scent trail that leads to your trap. Another strong lure is the GROUNDGRUBS.

Trap wise, don't use anything smaller than a 7x8x24 LIVE TRAP. The 11x12x30 is ideal as is the 11x12x30RD.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Woodchuck Bait:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/traps/lure/woodchuck-bait

Woodchuck Trailing Scent:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/traps/lure/woodchuck-trail

Grub Bait:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/traps/lure/grub-bait-8-oz

LT7x8x24:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/traps/cage/live-trap-7-x-8-x-24

LT 11x12x30:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/traps/cage/live-trap-11-x-12-x-30

LT 11x12x30RD:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/traps/cage/live-trap-11-x-12-x-30-rear-door

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I have just bought a Used car. I honestly believe some person has died in the car. The placements of stains predicts that the person has lost their body fluids in the drivers seat, a little on the passengers seat and on the back seat and floor or passengers side. I have hosed, scrubbed and done the best I know how too clean up a bad messes but this odor is bad. Nothing like I have smelt before except in death.
What do you recommend? I believe it might be best to rip out seats and carpet and start fresh. Just after your input.
Before you start ripping anything out, what you need to understand is that odor can be "alive". Biological odors – especially those originating from an animal or person – will migrate throughout the local environment. When held captive, such as inside a wooden box, closet, or other small compartment like the cab of an automobile, the odor will no doubt move onto and into other surfaces well beyond where you can see it physically existed. In general, anything fabric will be contaminated. Hard surfaces like metal and plastic are more resistant to the relocation process but nonetheless, they will need to be treated and can host this noxious smell.
Lucky for you there is a way to purge the smell from the vehicle. We've had great results using NNZ for dead body odor including smells from deceased people. The easiest way to get complete coverage and the fastest results would be to use the MINI FOGGER. Fill it with 25-75 (1 part NNZ to 3 parts water) mix of NNZ and Water and lightly mist the entire insides of the vehicle twice daily until the odor is gone. It will only require 15-30 seconds of fogging per treatment. Most people report complete odor removal within 3-4 days. The key to this approach is that the mist will cover most everything inside the car so you can effectively defeat the odor by getting it covered thoroughly right away. In cases where people try to hand wipe all surfaces, they typically don't get "into" key spots where the odor has no doubt migrated. The net result is the odor will persist a lot longer than one would like causing a lot of extra effort and aggravation.
That being said, you can try using the NNZ by wiping it all over any exposed surface inside the vehicle. This will no doubt take a lot more time and effort but it will save you the purchase cost of the Mini Fogger. If you use this approach, remember that it will take a lot more time to resolve the problem but if you have patience and keep at it, you'll get the desired results.
Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:
NNZ: http://www.bugspraycart.com/sanitizer/liquid/nnz-64-oz
Mini Fogger:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/equipment/foggers/fogmaster-5330-120-volt

Odor Control:  http://www.bugspray.com/article/odor.html

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I need an expert opinion….

Referring to picture that is attached, it looks as though this is a springtail.  These things jump like fleas but turn to dust when you crush them.  I have seen approx. 30-50 at night right inside the sliding door to our concrete slab patio.

I see onesies and twosies in the sinks and in the tubs.  Should I assume that they are nesting under the concrete patio? or possibly in the walls?  There is not really any abnormal moisture other than the typical 70%-90% humidity here in VA.  I would like to purchase some of your products to get rid of these pest.  Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you!

Springtails for sure. If you've read through our SPRINGTAIL CONTROL ARTICLE, you know what must be done. Focus on the outside for the best long term results and though you're seeing a lot on top of the patio slab, the real problem is in the soil.

Springtail Control Article:  http://www.bugspray.net/blog/springtail-infestations-and-where-to-treat.html

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0

We have major ant issues in our pantry and kitchen with small ants.  I picked up my dog’s dish and they were all over his dog food, so they don’t really seem to be after just sweets (unless dog food is sweet).  I’ve put out three different kinds of  bait stations that have made no difference whatsoever.  We also bought stuff from Lowe’s to spread around the outside of the house and to spray around the outside.  Neither of those have worked.  The dog food is in the pantry, but they also seem to be coming up from behind my kitchen cabinets and getting on the counters.

I’ve been trying to get your ant gel video to load, but it’s not working, so I’m not sure whether to get the ant gel or the bait stations.  Could you advise me as to what would work better – and how to use the gel?  We have 2 dogs, a cat and grandchildren, so that’s a factor – but we have GOT to get rid of these ants!  They’re driving me crazy!

Thank you.

I suggest you take some time to review our ANT CONTROL ARTICLE. There you will learn you must first take care of the current ant activity. Once the active ants inside have seemingly disappeared, you can then go on and spray the outside foundation and apply one of the granules listed in our article. Now for the immediate problem on hand…

There are two products you need. The ANT GEL is what you should get applied anywhere you're seeing ants inside. Give the Gel a good 2-4 days to be accepted. Next, apply PT-PHANTOM to all the cracks and crevices you find in these rooms. This will get the balance of any the Gel misses.

At the same time should spray the outside of the home with PHANTOM LIQUID. Lastly, get the yard treated with some MAXFORCE GRANULES.

I have checked the video you mentioned and on all our pages, it's working fine. I suggest you try again and if you still have problems, use a different computer. The video is a must watch so you can see what will happen when you use a good product to combat these ants.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Ant Control Article:  http://www.bugspray.net/tiny-ants-in-home

Ant Gel:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/bait/gel/maxforce-ant-gel-1-oz

PT-Phantom:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/aerosol/pt-phantom-17-5oz

Phantom Liquid:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/phantom-21-oz

Maxforce Granules:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/bait/granule/maxforce-gran

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Your site is excellent. You seem to have a control method for almost everything except mother in laws and leaf miners.

I can control my mother in law OK but I would be interested to know why you don't list leaf miner control in your A to Z listing.

Carl

Leaf Miners are a major nuisance once they get active in any plant. Small infestations in ground cover or trees can go unnoticed but when they attack our vegetable gardens, just one infested leave becomes very noticeable. Fortunately they're easy to control.

For non-editable plants in the landscape, treat with BIFEN and SPREADER STICKER. The Spreader Sticker will enable the Bifen to penetrate into the leaves where the miners are active and hard to spray directly. The organic option for these areas would be the GRUB KILLER RTS.

For vegetable gardens, go with the MULTIPURPOSE INSECT KILLER. This product can be sprayed on anything edible and will kill leaf miners quickly. But it won't last long so expect to treat weekly till the problem is cured.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Bifen:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/bifen

Spreader Sticker:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/additive/spreader-sticker

Grub Killer RTS:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/organic/liquid/grub-killer-32-oz-rts

Multipurpose Insect Killer:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/organic/liquid/multi-purpose-insect-killer-24-oz

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0

Hi,

I am in California :( and I need some spray to treat an area in my attic that once stored bat guano.
The guano has been removed but it still smells.

Do you have anything?

We have had excellent results with the NNZ. It mixes with water, can be sprayed or misted out over the areas needing to be treated and will get immediate results.

NNZ:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/sanitizer/liquid/nnz-64-oz

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0

We got bed bugs from an item (baby pack & play) from my niece, for when we would watch the baby. I immediately put it in the spare bedroom. That night my right arm was itchy & I woke to find these red very itchy bites on my right side, the side I sleep on. I ripped the everything off the bed & found 2 of these little fat red bugs which when crushed blood came out. This was 6 months ago. We've been spraying "viper" every week but kept finding one or 2 on the bed. Flipped box spring and all these black spots were all over bottom/sides, etc. I threw away the box spring & mattress. Washed every type of cloth item in that room with hot water and threw away every book & any other paper or cardboard. After we spray the room, the next day I wash the walls & such with Mr Clean, vacuum the wall to wall carpeting then shampoo the rug with my Hoover shampooer with hot water & the machine also heats up. Do I need to buy something else or do something different as I don't want to buy a new bed until I know there gone.

Thank you, Anita
P.S. I change vacuum bag & clean the vacuum & shampooer outside with hot water after every use.

At this point I would say the first thing you need to do is review our BEDBUG CONTROL article. From the reading you'll learn these guys love to live in wood like furniture, picture frames, molding and other areas out and away from the bed and mattress. You'll also  learn these areas are best treated with some DRIONE DUST.

I also suggest you change from using the Viper to CYFLUTHRIN and GENTROL. The active in Viper isn't the best for bedbugs (I don't think bedbugs are even on the label) and by adding the growth regulator, your treatments will have a much better impact.

Lastly, I suggest you keep some BEDLAM AEROSOL on hand. It's easy to apply and will come in handy for spot treating certain areas as needed in between liquid treatments.

The key with bedbugs is getting the area thoroughly treated and though cleaning may make you feel better, it won't do anything to control the local population like a good spraying will.

Here are links for the products and information mentioned above:

Bedbug Control:  http://www.bugspray.com/article/bedbugs.html

Drione:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/dust/drione-dust

Tempo:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/tempo-sc-8-oz

Gentrol:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/igr/gentrol-vial

Bedlam:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/aerosol/bedlam-16-oz

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0

Cave/camel crickets.  They seem to also emit an odor. Is that correct?  Trying to get rid of them.

Thanks.

No doubt cave crickets stink. One can say they have a foul odor that permeates their surroundings. And if you get some on your hands it's really nasty. Now do they get this odor because of where they live or because of something biological? Regardless, it's strong and hard to remove.

To get rid of them will involve one of the control methods detailed in our CAVE CRICKET CONTROL ARTICLE.

Here is a direct link to the information listed above:

Cricket Control:  http://www.bugspray.com/articles98/camelcrickets.html

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1

Hi,

I saw your website and was wondering which chemical would be the best to stop the little white moths which are devouring my mountain lion taxidermy mount.   I first noticed them when one of the larva came down from the mount on a silk thread.  When I inspected the lion, I noticed multiple adults and some larva on the surface!

Any help would be very much appreciated.

Thanks,

Chris

You most likely have CLOTHES MOTHS. Hopefully they're only on the lion mount so you won't have to do extensive treating. We keep several mounts at our shop and have used different products on them which have done the job. I prefer a dust because it can last a long time. It's not the easiest to use but if you apply slowly over the entire mount, the dust tends to settle down deep in the hair so it's mostly out of sight. PYGANIC will yield excellent results with treatments lasting 6-12 months. And since it only takes a little bit to do the job, the best way to apply it is with a CRUSADER. This applicator can disperse the dust nice and lightly which is all you need.

Another way to treat is with an aerosol. These are easier to use and the MICROCARE is a pyrethrin based microencapsulated version. Normally pyrethrin will only last a day and be gone. But by making it in tiny capsules, you'll get a month or so per application making it longer lasting. In our experience we had to use some every 1-2 months to keep our mounts pest free.

When used properly, neither product altered the mount and could not be seen – even right after the application was made. Start with the preferred form you'd like to use and I'm sure you'll get control. And be sure to inspect the surrounding areas to make sure there isn't a local problem developing in the home you've missed. Once these guys get into the carpeting, furniture or clothing, they can do quite a bit of damage!

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Clothes Moths Article:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page765.html

Pyganic Dust:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/dust/pyganic-dust-10-oz

Hand Duster:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/equipment/dusters/crusader

Microcare:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/aerosol/pt-micro-care-16-oz

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0

I had a sky light leak and black mold started to grow through the sheetrock in the ceiling. I treated it and repainted thinking it was taken care of. Now the mold is growing back through the new application of paint.

Which product would you recommend to kill the black mold on an interior ceiling?

Thanks.

If you read through our MOLD CONTROL ARTICLE, you'll learn it's key getting to the source of the problem. In a case like this, no doubt the problem is a leak somewhere allowing water/moisture to get inside the ceiling void. That means the first step is finding the leak and correcting the problem. Once the leak is fixed, you can treat the mold.

To treat the mold, use the product in the article called MOLD BLASTER. This can be injected via our FOAMING TOOL, sprayed into the void using a PUMP SPRAYER or just wiping down the area if you have direct access to the space. The ceiling sheetrock can also be treated by wiping it down with a Mold Blaster solution. This will kill the mold but it won't offer any long term prevention.

To prevent mold from regrowing, treat the same areas with MOLD BLOCKER. This can be applied the same way as the Mold Blaster. Keep in mind Mold Blocker won't kill mold so don't use it till you know the source of the problem has been fixed and that you've killed all the mold growing.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Mold Control Article:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page1621.html#E

Mold Blaster:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/sanitizer/liquid/mold-blaster-gal

Foaming Tool:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/equipment/foamers/solo-2-gal-foamer-w12-inj

Pump Sprayer:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/equipment/sprayers/eliminator-gallon-sprayer

Mold Blocker:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/equipment/sprayers/eliminator-gallon-sprayer

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0

My mother passed away last year and we cleaned out her house and garage from July to the end of September. Aside from the hidden entry points, we probably invited them in. Stink bugs must have entered the house through all of the open doors with moving furniture, etc., carpet cleaning with the door open, open windows with painting. The entry most used was through the garage into the kitchen. The garage was left open and had a wide grate on a heating duct where these bugs could crawl right in even after the garage and house was closed.

We have since put a fine mesh screen on this heating grate and blocked the “attic” area over the house with dry wall in the garage. However, these bugs have been present throughout the winter and to date. The house is still on the market with a current interested buyer. I daily go over to search for the stink bugs and flush them down the toilet. I probably average at least 3 to 8 daily since I began counting in January.

My question is: What are these bugs eating? Why did they survive the winter inside? There are no plants in the house and garage. They have survived the winter. Do they eat carpet fibers? Paper towel fibers? Drapery/Sheers fibers? Insulation fibers?

I just can’t understand why these bugs have not all died since the house has been closed up since October 5, 2010.

I keep the heat set on 60 degrees. We had a warm day two weeks ago (80 degrees) so I opened many windows to heat up and air out the house. This drew the bugs out from their hiding place which I think is in the heating ducts. I mainly see them in the living room and dining room which have large windows and are closest to the kitchen entry to the garage.

Question 2: What is my best method to get these bugs out of the house?

I appreciate any suggestions you would have. Terminix treated the inside of the home in January 2011 but this did not even slow them down.

Thank you.

If you read through our STINKBUG CONTROL ARTICLE, you'll learn that this pest overwinters or hibernates during the winter. During this time they don't need to eat anything. And since they can survive freezing temps, whether you let the house go cold or kept it at 80 degrees it wouldn't much matter; they're designed to live for several years and won't die from cold or heat.

You'll also learn from our article that once they identify a structure as a good place to hibernate, they'll start coming to it every fall. During their stay they'll be marking and scenting all over it leaving all kinds of odors and smells that will no doubt make it easier for them (and other stinkbugs) to find the structure next fall. The net result of this practice is that infestations will get worse and worse if left untreated due to their odor getting stronger and more concentrated. And though you mention a treatment done in January, it wasn't done on the outside (which is most important) and it was only one treatment. It will take at least 6 thorough applications made to both the outside and inside at the bare minimum to get rid of this pest so you are far from "done" with treating.

So what should you do? Well, our article provides all the details but here's a brief summary. Starting on the outside, you need to get a good perimeter of CYPERMETHRIN applied so emerging stinkbugs this spring will encounter the treatment and die. This will effectively reduce the amount that will be available to use the home next fall. The outside should be treated at least 1-2 this spring and then again at least this much next fall. The outside is always "key" when dealing with this pest if you want to achieve long term control. If you are lucky, by this time next spring the bulk of the problem will be controlled.

To help make sure you reach this goal, during the summer you should inspect the local landscape to make sure they're aren't eating or living on any plants in the yard. Since stinkbugs feed and nest on most any plant, it's very well possible they are somewhere close when it's warm and if they're on your property, reducing their numbers with some Cypermethrin or VEGETABLES PERMETHRIN (in case it's a vegetable garden they've found) would be required. Again, getting them before they enter is always best and it's common for local populations to migrate inside anything close to where they reside during the summer.

Lastly, for immediate control inside, start applying PHANTON where you see activity. This odorless aerosol is easy to use and when applied properly will go on dry. Apply some to cracks and crevices and any place you suspect they might be hiding or using as a pathway inside. You should also treat with DELTAMETHRIN DUST in any void (like attics or wall spaces) where you think they might be nesting. This will make the area unsuitable for their overwintering success and in the long run, help to keep their numbers inside minimized should they get past your outside applications.

This approach will no doubt control the problem but it could take 1-2 years before it's completely gone. To reach your goal, it will involve several treatments and getting them done in the right areas are key.

Here are direct links to the products and information listed above:

Stinkbug Control Article:  http://www.bugspray.com/article/stinkbug.html

Cypermethrin:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/viper-cypermethrin

Vegetables Plus Permethrin:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/veg-plus-10-perm

Phantom:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/aerosol/pt-phantom-17-5oz

Deltamethrin Dust:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/dust/deltamethrin-dust

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8

Hey,

Saw your web site, so you asked for pictures (I got them!) You can post any you like. I thought these guys were lady bugs so I let them live. WRONG! They are eating my wisteria, and moving onto the roses! They prefer the wisteria:

They have a square back end….

Small & also get into the house….

They gather in groups and start munchin!

You think they are okay….

BUT then you notice your wisteria is GONE!

Bastard bugs…. and they smell too!

I thought the smell was coming from the flowers… but they make your hand stink!

My wisteria is intermingled with the lady banks roses…. I used the hose on them last night, not sure if they were BAD until I investigated today and found out they were BAD! Plus I looked at my wisteria again….. eaten! So now, I get out the CHEMICALS! (and inform the public via you ;-)

DAMN BUGS! These are not good ones! Kill them all!

Kindest Regards,

V.M.

Oh yes, and I'm in Gainesville, GA. (you asked for the location) I'm on Lake Lanier, not sure if that is another reason they moved in, there is some kudzu in the woods behind us (but not a lot), just some.

Thanks for the great photo's! No doubt this pest is here to stay and that it can do some damage. If you're finding them on your property, it's best to do some treating and keep them in check before their numbers and damage becomes overwhelming. This article goes over all you'll need to take care of any problem.

Kudzu Bug Control:  http://www.bugspray.net/beetles/little-brown-beetle-on-house.html

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0

Can you help me get rid of cutter bees? I thought maybe there was a plant of something that would repel them. Every year we spend lots of money, for us, on flowers and every year these bees chew holes in them. If you can help I would appreciate it immensely.

This is an easy one. Cutter Bees will be very active in the spring and though in general they serve a beneficial role in nature, they can be quite destructive once they target a specific plant or flower bed like it sounds is happening at your house. To stop them, you should apply some VEGETABLES PLUS PERM to every plant you want to protect. This product will both repel them and kill them if they persist. In general these bees are smart enough to avoid the treated area and will stay away once you spray. Expect to treat once every 1-2 weeks at the start of the season and then less frequently as the warm season moves along.

Alternatively you can opt for the organic solution which is NBS INSECT REPELLENT. This product can be mixed with water too and sprayed to the home or nearby flowers. It won't kill anything but instead will act as a natural repellent. Bees don't like it either and will avoid where it's been applied.

Use a GOOD PUMP SPRAYER to apply either and you should be able to protect anything in your landscape using this approach.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Permethrin:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/veg-plus-10-perm

NBS:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/exempt/additive/nbs-paint-additive-16-oz

Good Sprayers:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/good/pump-sprayers

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