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I enjoyed reading about methods to eliminate the much hated gophers I deal with at my home on beautiful Padre Island. I have tried several of the products you mentioned and quite a few methods you didn't mention. But I have a couple of questions.

I have three chihuahuas that live indoors but use my back yard as their "bathroom" and this is where I'm trying to drive off the gophers. Will coyote urine frighten my dogs, as well as the gophers, so they won't want to go outside?

Also, regarding gopher bait. I feel confident I can get a product so deep in the gopher burrows that it won't affect my dogs; HOWEVER, once when I buried hundreds of moth balls the gophers tossed them back out in my yard! Therefore, the gopher bait, I'm thinking, would be lethal to my dogs, correct?

To no avail, I've tried (in addition to moth balls), the sonic sound repellers, cat litter box discards, gas bombs, BB gun, whirlygigs (work the best to get the gopher to move on but not far enough!), and the popcorn poison in my front yard away from my dogs.

Thanks so much for your help.

COYOTE URINE is an odor which will scare away prey animals. As our GOPHER CONTROL ARTICLE explains, we've seen where the urine can be used to deter foraging and new gopher activity. However, it doesn't do nearly as good of a job at chasing away existing gophers because the gophers already have a home and in most cases will be reluctant to leave. So use the urine only after you rid yourself of the current activity and animals now living in the turf.

As for pets; they will percieve the urine as just another animal scent. Most domesticated dogs don't fear any animal because they're not wild anymore and do not have to deal with the day to day threat of being hunted by some larger prey animal. As far as they know, the coyote urine is just another animal pee they will commonly find anytime they go outside.

Regarding bait; you are dead on correct to be concerned about your pet ingesting some. This is always a possibility when baits are used around non target animals. In fact, this is such a concern, the use of bait is about to become very restricted. This is being done because in general people are both careless and the impact on non target animals has been too significant to not do anything. Expect to see loose bait all but removed from the market place over the next few years.

Combine the risk of your pets ingesting some bait with the fact that gophers will "discharge" most anything put in their tunnels and you have just one more reason to employ the obvious and what we feel is the best solution for any active gopher problem: LIVE TRAPS. These devices are both easy to use and highly effective on gophers. They're also very safe and the most cost effective method out there.

And once you trap out the ones currently active you can move to the repellents which again, only really work at keeping away new animals looking to set up a home. So your experience with all the repellents you listed is no surprise to us; we know they won't work at chasing existing animals away. Use the live or kill traps for that process and the repellents to keep anymore from coming around.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Coyote Urine:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page732.html

Gopher Control:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page731.html

Live Traps:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page742.html

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Hi, I recently made a purchase of trap, coyote urine, peanut stuff.  I have a question on eliminating indoor insects like spiders, pill bugs and those thousand leg things that you squish and there is nothing there.

How can you eliminate these insects without a spray can insecticide?  The spray will get on carpets and walls.  Is there another product?  Thanks.

For the longest time pretty much anything one wanted to spray inside the home would leave a mess. Traditionally the sprays were oil based and would leave stains, residue and basically a mess where applied. These sprays then became water based but still they were messy. Fortunately in recent years, this has all changed.

Todays products are virtually odorless and when applied properly, should barely be detectable. That being said, I'm still reluctant to spray the inside of my home for general pest control unless I've got good reason. So how do I keep pests out?

For starters, I mostly spray outside my home. By treating the mulch, flower beds and foundation of my home I'm able to keep most all invading pests outside the active living spaces. For these areas I mostly use BIFEN but there are several actives that can do the job.

And when I do find a problem inside, the only spray I use is PHANTOM. It's unique formulation allows it to go on dry and odorless so even on my hardwood floors there is no clue anything has been applied. I use it on my boat too where the high gloss deck and flooring will show the slightest dirt or smudge but amazingly, not the Phantom.

In summary, treat around the exterior of your home throughout the year to keep pests from entering. But when they do get inside, spot treat with Phantom and I'm sure you'll be able to keep them under control without making a mess.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Bifen:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/bifen

Phantom:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/aerosol/pt-phantom-17-5oz

How to do Pest Control Article:  http://www.bugspray.net/insect-control

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Which do you recommend to kill actively growing fungus in a crawl space in southeast Georgia where the moisture problem is mostly seasonal with heavy rain? The moisture barrier and mechanical issues are going to be dealt with as or after the treatment with bora care. Is the mold care necessary in addition to the boracare?

In general, the best way to deal with a problem like this is to first solve the moisture issue. Once the mechanical repair is done, you should monitor the moisture level to make sure it does in fact decrease. Next, you should decide what to use. As our MOLD CONTROL ARTICLE explains, BORACARE is far superior to TIMBOR because it penetrates the wood deep. This insures it gets the mold at it's roots. Timbor is really best used as a topical treatment and for what we call "remedial" control or prevention.

BORCARE MOLDCARE is a step up from Boracare because it will work on mold that much faster insuring a quick kill and control. Boracare by itself should accomplish this but can take awhile; Boracare Moldcare does everything most consumers want the fastest.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Mold Control Article:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page1621.html

Boracare:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/boracare-gal

Timbor:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/wettable-powder/timbor

Boracare Moldcare:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/boracare-with-moldcare

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I have noticed this fast moving little white bug first on the window sills and now they are on our wooden furniture. I have been trying to find out and searched all over google but just can not seem to pin point it. The first time I seen them I was opening the windows on a hot day about lunch time they are really really fast and I'm just not sure if I should be worried? Hope you can help. Thanks.

Being worried won't help or hurt the cause but if you want to do something constructive to reduce their population, a quick treatment with some PHANTOM will no doubt take care of whatever it might be. Odorless and dry to the touch when applied to most any surface, I'm using it on hardwood floors and the deck of my boat without any impact so you can't tell it's even been applied. I have a problem with a wide range of pests in these areas and the Phantom does the job. It's odorless and will last a month or more. It controls just about any pest and is good for treating areas where traditional liquid sprays are a bit messy.

Another product I like to use from time to time is the water based AQUACIDE. It uses an active which is repellent to pests so if these guys were coming from some other location over and over, the Aquacide would help to keep them away.

As for what you have that's active is anyone's guess. It could be aphids, psocids, thrips or some kind of molting insect giving them a white hue or color. And based on what's happened so far, it would appear that if you don't do something they'll continue to thrive and migrate into the home. For this reason alone it would be worth doing something now before the problem gets any worse.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Phantom:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/aerosol/pt-phantom-17-5oz

Aquacide:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/aerosol/aquacide-aerosol-20-oz

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I saw oil type spray on tv that kills roaches and wasps on contact. Tv show Vexcon exterminators used it. Do you sell it? What is it?

No doubt we have it. I must have missed this episode so I don't know off the top of my head what product it was but I'm sure we carry it. Here are some of my guesses:

Wasp Freeze:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/aerosol/pt-515-wasp-freeze-18-oz

Hornet Killer:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/aerosol/bonide-wasp-and-hornet-killer

565:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/aerosol/pt-565-xlo

We have others listed in our aerosol section here:

http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/aerosol

If you need further help, give us a call toll free at 1-800-877-7290.

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Do springtails hibernate? Could they survive a winter in an upper level empty flower box over a winter? It is wooden. Can they reproduce in a box like that? Do sprays not penetrate the soil enough to bring the population down?

Springtails don't "hibernate" in their adult stage. Most that adults that confront the harsh reality of winter will die. And since their life span is so short, even if they were alive at the start of winter, chances are they'd be dead by winters end anyway.

What does happen is the stages before adulthood are slowed or even stopped from progressing. So they are more or less in a state of suspended hibernation. They're neither growing or dying but merely waiting for warm weather to once again make them active.

As for where this can happen; no doubt flower boxes and planters are prime locations and there are some sprays that will knock out springtails living in these areas. We have found the MULTI PURPOSE INSECT KILLER is an excellent product to use for such a treatment. It's fast acting and can be poured into the pot or flower box every 2-3 months to prevent any insect from living there. This treatment won't affect the plant and as an organic option is very safe to use.

Lastly, if you have springtails out and about in your yard, you'll need to do more than just liquid spraying. Details can be found in our springtail control article located below. Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Multi Purpose Insect Killer:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/organic/liquid/multi-purpose-insect-killer-24-oz

Springtail Control:  http://www.bugspray.com/article/springtail.html

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We are going crazy with an infestation of INDOORS midges/gnats in our home. We are open to any idea since we have tried anything else. Perhaps timer/foggers with a non dangerous spray for the rooms?

There are a few options that can handle this problem. You could manually use a space spray like AQUACIDE on a daily basis. Treat the rooms where they're active once in the morning and once again at night before you retire. This will knock out the active ones and over time should get rid of them all.

A more permanent solution would be set out an AEROSOL MACHINE which runs automatically. These can be placed in the rooms with the most activity and can be set to disperse some product every 15 minutes if needed. Fill them with KONK. Over the course of a month it will have a big impact and could solve the problem by killing all active adults before they're able to reproduce if the problem is based inside the home.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Aquacide:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/aerosol/aquacide-aerosol-20-oz

Aerosol Machine:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/equipment/foggers/aerosol-dispenser-2000

Konk:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/aerosol/konk-974-py-6-5-oz

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I live in condo, with a canal in the backyard. Last 5 years I haven't been able to sleep from April to November, this year they came back a week ago and two months earlier.One week without sleeping itching and with big bites on the neck area and shoulders, (even though they are all over me), I just cannot stop moving. First I thought that it were flying ants (black) they are also in my apartment, Truly Nolen came and identified the insects as the NSU and told me that they could not get rid of it. Do you have any suggestions? I'd love to hear from you!

Thank you.

There are two things which will prove helpful for this problem. The first is to install NOSEEUM SCREENING in any windows you like to keep open. When living in or around wet marshland, if you keep windows open you'll no doubt allow them to access the home at will. This screening will keep their numbers down but still some of the tiniest will get through. To stop them, you'll need to spray the screening every 1-2 weeks with some PERMETHRIN. It's odorless and can be lightly misted on your screens as frequently as is needed. When noseeums (or any pest) land on it, they'll pick up a lethal dose or exposure to the Permethrin and die soon thereafter.

The second thing you can do is some perimeter treatments with one of the products we have listed in our NOSEEUM CONTROL ARTICLE. The most effective we've seen for use in areas like you've described is the ECO IC misted over the vegetation and land surrounding your home with a BACK PACK MISTER. This  product uses a food grade active and is safe enough to use in such areas. It can be applied as frequently as you need. Many customers have reported good results with it; you can see one such report posted here:

http://www.bugspray.net/customer-testimonials#sandflies

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Noseeum Netting:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/equipment/netting/mosq-netting-per-ft-7×1

Permethrin:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/veg-plus-10-perm

Noseeum Article:  http://www.bugspray.com/article/sandflies.html

ECO IC:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/exempt/liquid/eco-excempt-gal

Back Pack Mister:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/equipment/foggers/solo-mistblower-backpack

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I emailed you once last summer. this article was extremely helpful. Where I live it is winter time and so relieved due to psocids. We got one warm day which was abt 45 degrees. I am already seeing them. We had Orkin come in to try and resolve this problem. No luck with Orkin. So I am taking this matter into my own hands with the help of your article.  I do have a question.  I am noticing alot of this annoying bugs in our patio which I have turned into a play room for my son. I have plastic bins of toys, Books and even a play table made out of wood. How would I control the humidity in that room. It faces towards the street, entry is thru the patio to get to our front door. I do not have any curtains up. would it help with heat if I put some up. If I decided to move every thing out of there until I deal with the bugs. If I take this items to a differ room will it start an infestation to the room I store them in???????????? For instance if I seal off the plastic bins and there happens to be one of those bugs inside and I seal it in will they hatch more eggs inside and things could get worst???????? If my husband and I start this process how long till we stop seeing the action of this stupid bugs???? I am also having problems sealing off our basement. There are cracks all over. I am sure we can not find every crack.   HELP PLEASE…..D.

First, reducing the amount of humidity will in general help to reduce most any insect population. This is particularly true with psocids. The easiest way to accomplish this would be to get a small dehumidifier. They're easy to use and maintain and most certainly will help the problem. I recommend one for the patio for starters.

Second, removing everything will not cause them to relocate unless the room where you move all the toys is equally as humid and you successfully migrate some adults which is actually not so easy to do. Psocids are mushy, vulnerable and not easily handled let alone moved. And they're easy to see so when relocating anything from the room it would be easy to note if there were any of them hitching a ride. But if the room you're moving everything too is extra "moist", I'd say installing a dehumidifier there would be smart too.

Third, as our PSOCID ARTICLE explains, this pest is easy to kill. A good cleaning with the ROUGH'N READY will remove their food. Follow this up with some CYKICK and you should be able to knock them out immediately. And if you treat once a month, you should be able to keep them away for good.

Lastly, I do feel I should make mention of another pest which some people readily confuse with psocids. Just to make sure we're talking about the same pest; are the bugs you're seeing white, somewhat oval in shape and crawling around in a circular fashion? That would most likely be a psocid. These little guys will avoid the light and when you turn over items on the ground or pull open a closed window, you can many times see them scurrying away once exposed to the light.

But another common pest that can infest homes to extreme levels is what we call a SPRINGTAIL. They're black, resemble a flea, and will migrate inside by the thousands. These guys can "hop" which is why they're many times mistaken for a flea. They thrive in moisture ridden areas and rely on a lot of humidity to live. This time of year they'll invade homes as they migrate up and out of the soil following the turn of winter to spring. I mention them just to make sure these aren't what you're seeing because the treatment for this pest is a lot more "chemical intensive" and involves going outside to reduce the local population. Review the article to see what I'm talking about. As you'll see, compared to psocids, springtails would involve 5-10 times as much work and aggravation!

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Psocid Control:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page1219.html

Rough N'Ready:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page2118.html

Cykick:  http://www.bugspray.com/item/pt_cykick.html

Springtails:  http://www.bugspray.com/article/springtail.html

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i've heard putting freshly chewed bubble gum in the vole runs is effective in killing them-i've heard they can't digest it and it kills them. if that's as effective as chemicals i'm ready to chew! any truth there,or do i need a animal biologist?

There are a lot of "old wives tales" circulating which involve common pests and "home" remedies. In most cases, there is no scientific research backing the claims and most all have been passed down from generation to generation like any other story. One of our favorites is the one including the use of gum as you describe. Why someone would think it can kill anything is a mystery. My own theory is that someone was waging a war against some voles and happened to like chewing gum. Remember, gum was around long before any kind of vole bait. With voles, one can get quite close to where they live and move. I'm willing to bet this person either mistakenly dropped a piece of gum in a tunnel or intentionally placed some out but regardless of how it got there, I believe what happened next is what spawned this story.

I know from personal experience that it's entirely possible to "feed" moles, voles and shrews. I have successfully snuck up on them upon sighting activity in my own and customers yards and on many occasions made offerings of food and bait. Many times they've accepted my offering. When done right, one can present a wide range of "bait" by making it seem alive like a grub or worm. I've had voles, moles and shrews actively take bait out of my hand through small holes I've made in tunnels where I've seen them active. The only reason I ever tried this is because I like to fish and many of the lures I use make a lot of noise, sound and motion. This will actually attract target fish. Using this pattern I've been able to call in all kinds of animals including rats, fox, coyote, bob cats, deer, crow, turkey, squirrels and others. And one day I decided to try "calling" in moles.

I actually was doing pest control and found it particularly frustrating that when I showed up at a customers house to do a mole job I was never able to find anything alive and moving. Instinctively I know these guys can be active most all day so at one point I started to concentrate my searches with only a little bit of motion and lots of time staring at where they were reportedly active. I tried this technique thinking it would reduce vibrations that could be making them scatter. Eventually I was able to spy activity where I tried to find them and with some practice, I was able to get really close to this activity without spooking them away. It wasn't long before I was making a "presentation" through the top of some tunnels like one might make a presentation with jig or spoon for a bass under a boat or dock. And crazy as it sounds, one day I got a "bite"! After that it wasn't tough to figure out I could feed them a treated bait and this turned out to work well at solving problems. I was able to cut my mole control visits down to just 1-2 stops and solve the problem with little issues. I don't know when but eventually it proved effective for voles and shrews too because some of them were being found following a job I'd do.

Now if sometime long ago someone was able to sneak up on an active vole and happened to have some gum that he or she offered to this same vole and then the vole disappeared, it would explain why someone might think the gum killed the little guy. In reality it's more likely the vole up and relocated like they commonly do.

You see, voles are highly active little guys. Constantly searching for food, they'll up and move as needed to insure they know where to their next meal will be coming from. In probably 40% of the problems I've dealt with over the years I've seen bad problems just cease and go away for no apparent reason. This tends to happen in yards where it's the first time a mole or vole problem has been noticed. In yards with a long running history of problems it's more likely the problem will persist till it's actively controlled. But unlike most pests, voles are highly mobile and transient by nature. And I bet it's this ability to up and leave that may have sent the wrong message regarding the impact of gum that was made available to a resident vole.

So to answer your question more directly I'm sorry to say no, gum won't kill a vole. I guess there could be a flavor or two that could cause an allergic reaction and obviously if one was to choke on the piece it could lead to their demise but neither would occur with any significant frequency to declare it a viable control method. And this is why we now have a wide range of Vole products being marketed as listed in our VOLE CONTROL ARTICLE. These are all proven methods so if you have an active problem needing some attention, stick to what's tried and true to save on wasted time and frustration.


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Hello,

I have a question about the Fly Powder trap before placing an order. I could not find information on your website about how long it will last or how often they need replacing.

Can you make a recommendation for me: I only have one window with a cluster fly problem and have never seen more than 8 flies at a time. The window is in 2 parts (a rectangle with a semi circle above it) & they accumulate in both sections.

I was thinking of getting a pack of 4 traps & putting out 2 at a time (one on each ledge) but wondered if there was an expiry date –if I only replaced them yearly would it still be effective?

Thank you!

Based on the size of the problem you're describing, I'm sure 2 FLY POWDER TRAPS would be plenty. In fact they should last about 1 year under normal use. The replacement guideline for these traps is annually unless they capture 1000 flies sooner.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Fly Powder Trap:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page1343.html

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I've purchased liquid ant stations as well as liquid spray (Viper).  They work very well when I am diligent.  Now in the middle of winter we've had ants coming in.  We believe that there is a large nest under the slab of the wing on our house and we're not sure how to get the spray under the slab. We've set bait stations.  I don't like spraying anything in the house.  Do you have any recommendations?

The products you listed will work under most conditions. When foraging ants out and about during the warm months come inside, they'll generally be seeking moisture or food. The LIQUID BAIT STATIONS supply both and therefore accepted and fed upon by most any ant. This will kill most inside and therefore prevent nests from forming. Combine this with the outside spraying of the VIPER which is highly repellent to ants and you should be able to keep them out. But once nests are established inside the home, things change regarding treatment methods and approaches. This is especially true when the nest is located inside a wall void or up under a slab or other hidden area like you describe might be the case in your home.

To treat this problem successfully, you need something that works  "stealthy". Something they can't detect or notice is ideally suited. Viper should not be used because it's highly repellent and no doubt could make more of a mess in a situation like this so we strongly recommend not spraying it inside. We also feel the Liquid Bait is not the best option during the winter. In most cases ants can find plenty of water once they move inside so I would put both away and start using them after it gets warm and spring arrives. So what do we recommend you ask?

We have found the best product for use inside the home during the winter is the PHANTOM AEROSOL. It's practically odorless and more importantly, won't be noticed by ants foraging and walking about their scent trails. Phantom is designed this way and won't begin to work for several days which is why it's so effective. When the chemical finally starts to kick in and take effect, it will have been shared by many members of the colony and in most cases the net result will be a complete shut down of the nest. The beauty of this product is that it can work this way without you having to know where the nest is located.

So for now I suggest you apply some light treatments of Phantom along the trails where you see them foraging. Remember it's not a contact kill so don't expect to see any results for 4-8 days. By 10-14 days, the nest should be dead. Oh, and don't interrupt the ants as they forage over treated areas. Many times people will kill ants they see which is actually counterproductive when using Phantom. By leaving them to walk over the treatment you're insuring the best results possible.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Liquid Bait Stations:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/bait/stations/drax-liquid-bs-inside

Viper:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/viper-cypermethrin

Phantom:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/aerosol/pt-phantom-17-5oz

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I’ve had problems when I go to the beach with gnat bites or “no-seeums’ as they are referred to. I tend to have allergic reactions to the bites so I really need something that will help keep them away while I’m there vacationing. I’ve tried going to my allergist and getting a shot beforehand, but that doesn’t seem to do the trick. I always end up being miserable and then having to come back home and get another shot. How best can I combat these gnats?

You seem to have a lot of good products and if I could afford it, I would buy one of everything that you mention for no-seeums. Since cost is a factor, what, in your opinion, would be most effective for me? We do like to sit out on the deck in the evening and sometimes at night and I know they can easily get through the screens. I’ve tried citronella candles and lots of bug sprays, but I still end up getting bites. The beach that we like the most is remote and a little bit out of the way. I know they spray, but I don’t know how often and obviously because of the problems that I’ve had I need extra help. Even with all the problems I’ve had, I still love the beach and this location in particular..

Would you please suggest a few products that would be most effective for me without having to buy one of everything?

Thanks so much for your help!

This is a tough one. It's not that's it tough to solve the problem. I'm 100% sure if you had the BACK PACK FOGGER and blasted away with some BIFEN you'd knock down the local population enough so you could go outside without having to get shots before and after the trip. But anything less is a gamble. This is especially true when the problem is close to water, marshland and other moist environments. Since they'll thrive in the millions, it's near to impossible not to get bit if you don't actively reduce the local population around the structure and yard where you'd like to be outside and active.

That being said, I'm not sure you'll get good results using anything less than a FM6309 or FM6208 misting machine. Neither will handle the amount of area like our Back Pack Fogger but they do create the same result. And I'm certain the only way you'll be able to enjoy the outside will be by reducing the population in the area. I would say if you treated at least a 1/2 if not a full acre of land around the home you could survive and be happy. And I would treat as often as is necessary. This could be every day. I've seen situations where this is the case but I've also seen where it only requires once a week fogging in the worse part of the seaon so it's hard to say for sure.

Lastly, I'm not sure any repellent will do an adequate job at keeping these pests at bay so I'm not going to list anything for you. I know they will work during the day and in areas where people aren't wanting to lay out and relax. For example, the local Putt Putt Golf center or Driving Range. In the evening these areas will be full of people along with a lot of biting pests. No-seeums, mosquitoes, gnats and other "blood seeking insects" will be hanging around there big time and if you arrived with one of the repellents we have listed I'm sure it would help keep them off you. But a big reason why this would happen is because they'd have an alternative food supply with all the other people around. Unfortunately that's not the case at your beach house. With only a very limited food supply to keep them occupied, they're more likely to focus in on you because they just don't have many options. This is when repellents tend to fail.

In summary, I'm afraid anything short of fogging as explained in our NOSEEUM CONTROL article won't help much. So if you want them gone, you'll need to do a little work and keep at it your whole time visiting.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Back Pack Fogger:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/equipment/foggers/solo-mistblower-backpack

Bifen:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/bifen

FM6309:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/equipment/foggers/fogmaster-6309-120-v

FM6208:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/equipment/foggers/fogmaster-6208-trijet-120-v

No-Seeum Control:  http://www.bugspray.com/article/sandflies.html

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Dear Jonathan,

I read through your article about bats and very interested in buying some of the products but not sure which is most effective for our warehouse.

Our warehouse is located in Bali, Indonesia. It's used to store furniture. The main problem is at nights bats would come and poo on the furniture.

This is not just dangerous but also cost us money as we have to re-do the finishing.

As you can see on picture below the construction which is completely open. High ceiling supported by bamboo poles, no walls nor glass to cover the area.

We hang several blinds on the side to prevent direct sun and rain, but the rest is open, so at night bats can fly however they like. P

With this situation would it be possible for you to recommend which product we could use?

Looking forward to your recommendation.

Thank you.

Based on the photo you sent:

In my experience, the CEILING ULTRA SOUND DEVICE is ideally suited for the job. It's designed to be attached to the ceiling and it can cover quite a bit of area. As listed on it's product page, it can protect up to 2500 sq/ft. Based on the image you've provided, it appears the roof is pitched at an angle. For this reason I'm afraid you'll have to install two units to get proper protection. I'm also assuming the bats are coming inside to roost and "hang out". So if they are in fact landing on the bottom side of the roof line, the Ultra Sound is the way to go.

Now if it turns out they are entering the open space and simply flying around, I'm not sure the Ultra Sound is the remedy to employ. In this scenario, it would be most likely they are coming inside to feed. And if this is true, then there must be an abundant supply of food inside to lure them inside. For most bats it's insects they're after. And for this reason one of the best ways to repel the bats would be to remove the "attractant". In other words, get rid of the insects and you'll get rid of the bats!

This can best be accomplished by treating the open air space with a SPACE FOGGER an some PERMETHRIN. This treatment may need to be done a few times a week after you close but once you get the local insect population down inside the protected area under the roof, the bats will be forced to go elsewhere for food. This indirect method would prove highly effective and a sure way to deal with unwanted visitors like bats.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Ultra Sound Device:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page835.html

Space Fogger:  http://www.gotosprayer.com/fogging/electric-misters/fogmaster-6309-fogger

Permethrin:  http://www.bugspray.com/item/455641.html
Bat Control Products:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page211.html

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Hi,

Sorry to trouble you with such a strange one. But my partner had a crazy phobia of frogs, screams shouts flaps cries. The works. I'm near an ancient pond, guessing frogs have been passing this way for many years, on way to and from pond. She thinks they live in our garden, sheds, garages and are planning to take over the house. Do you have any product that may deter them?

Thinking deter rather than kill them but kill would do.

Ultra sonics? If not, any idea of frequencies I would be looking at to build one?

Many thanks,

Jim

There are no ultra sound devices produced to repel frogs because no one has identified a sound range that irritates them enough to force them to up and move. However, they are highly motivated by food. If there is frog food around they will no doubt forage in the area. So naturally if you take away their food you can in effect force them to relocate.

To accomplish this, you have three methods. The traditional approach is to use a MIST BLOWER and lightly fog some PERMETHRIN over the vegetation where they like to hang out. This treatment will kill off insects frogs like to eat and force them to live elsewhere.

If you prefer to use something organic, go with the MULTI PURPOSE INSECT KILLER. It can be used the same way and will indirectly yield the same results. But since it's organic, you'll no doubt need to use it more frequently.

Lastly, you can opt to use an insect repellent like NBS. It won't kill a thing but it does repel most any insect and not surprisingly, it tends to repel frogs, newts, lizards and other small creatures in the reptile/amphibian family.

Any of these options will reduce and in some cases eliminate the local frog population. The key is using enough and using it frequently. The exact schedule from property to property will vary but in general, one can expect at least 1 week of protection if not 3-4 depending on the local environment, climate, vegetation, insect populous and frog species.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Mist Blower:  http://www.gotosprayer.com/fogging/electric-misters/fogmaster-5330-mini-fogger

Permethrin:  http://www.bugspray.com/item/vegetables_plus_permethrin.html

Multi Purpose Insect Killer:  http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/concentrates/multi-purpose-insect-killer-24-oz

NBS:  http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/repellents/nbs-repellent-insect-spray

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