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Is there any preventative action one can do in the winter when white flies are dormant to minimize their return in the summer?  I have them on my grapes.  Currently, the vines are pruned and the ground underneath is bare.

There really isn't much you can do during the winter. In general, most insects are in some dormant stage where they remain shielded from the generally adverse conditions of the winter season. Nature has allowed insects to develop this way over time so they may continue on from year to year. This same protection will protect them from most all of the traditional treatments so for now, you need to wait till it warms and they become active.

In fact the best time to get them is in the spring, just as they hatch and get active, because the simple act of reducing the first of the season's hatch can easily have the biggest impact on how they develop the rest of the year. In short, reducing this initial hatching will reduce the amount that will have a chance to be born. It's really a game of numbers; reduce the total number active in the spring through early summer and in general, there will be a lot less during the middle to end of the season.

To do this, good whitefly prevention includes periodic treatments with something like the organic MULTI INSECT KILLER every 2 weeks. If done on a regular basis, you'll be able to stop not only the whiteflies, but just about any pest that might find your grapes attractive. So for now there isn't much you can do but spring will soon arrive and with it the whiteflies.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Whitefly Control:  http://www.bugspray.com/article/whiteflies.html

Multi Insect Killer:  http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/concentrates/multi-purpose-insect-killer-24-oz

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What would be the best product for treatment of moles in a residential lawn of about 1/2 acre. Thanks for your response.

We have lots of options listed in our MOLE CONTROL ARTICLE all of which can prove to be the "best". In most cases, it's a combined effort that results in long term control. From my own personal experience, I've learned to use the WORM BAIT to get the ones currently active. Once I've knocked out the active moles, I like to hit the turf hard with BIFEN GRANULES which will effectively take away their food. And if I apply these twice a year, it seems as though I can keep them out of my yard for good.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Mole Control:  http://www.bugspray.com/articles98/moles.html

Worm Bait:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page2068.html

Bifen Granules:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page205.html

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After reading the informative internet owl house article by Charles Wade and Lee Pauser,  I am in the process of building an owl house for my daughter who lives in the San Diego area.  She has a one acre property that is over-run with various rodents that live in the ground around her home.  An owl house seems to be a great answer to the problem.

I have wanted to build something a little different than a standard plywood box and have designed something that fits the article criteria but has more of a rustic barnyard appearance.  I want to use exterior grade plywood for the bottom and sloped top pieces with rough sawn cedar for the exterior.   I have already purchased the materials, including the cedar (5/8” X 5 1/2” X 6’ rough sawn Western Red Cedar fence boards) but am wondering if I have made a mistake.  I recall reading somewhere that a person shouldn’t use cedar shavings for the bedding material.  I have used cedar for various projects in the past and remember that I had to use long sleeve shirts and a dust mask since the sawdust bothered me.

So, my question to you is, do you believe that I should take the cedar back and use redwood instead or if the cedar would be o.k.?  I would hate to go to the expense of building this and find that the owls won’t use it.

Your comments would be appreciated.

Over the years we have mostly sold the PLYWOOD BARN OWL HOUSES due largely to it's cost being less and the fact that it's equally as durable compared to the cedar design. We have always included cedar shavings to be used inside both models, on the bottom of the house, and have not recorded any noticeable problem resulting from this practice. Barn owls seem to adapt the houses fine whether cedar shavings are used in either model and when compared side by side, the CEDAR BARN OWL HOUSES are just as likely to get owls moving in as their closely related plywood designs.

Barn Owl Houses:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/bats/barn_owl_house.html

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We have a semi al-fresco pub located in Upstate NY and cannot control our fly problem from May to October. I know of one problem area, which getting my employees to do it like locating hen's teeth. They fail, almost on a daily occurrence, to secure and soak dirty rags. This is a breeding ground for larva. Since I have given up on asking/pleading to get them to complete this menial task, I am seeking assistance with some type of FOOD SERVICE SAFE compound to keep the common housefly out of our establishment.

Customers have written that our place has all of the right things, open windows, great food, but thousands of flies! I know that companies like Walmart have an air disturbance at each entrance to disrupt the flies, but not sure if I can find these based on the dimensions of our windows.

No doubt flies can present a major challenge to any restaurant. Once they get established in the local areas adjacent to the establishment, you'll find them coming inside from mid to late summer right into the fall. And though air doors/windows might help, I'd hold off making that kind of investment till you try a few of the listed less costly options our FLY CONTROL ARTICLE highlight.

For starters, I recommend setting up some FLY BAG TRAPS. These do a great job of "intercepting" flies as they approach your business. Place enough of them around the building and I'm sure you'll be able to capture the vast bulk of them. This in turn will dramatically reduce the ones coming into the food prep and serving areas big time. I would say you can reduce the ones inside by 80-90 % if you keep these traps installed and maintained. The key here is maintaining them since they can fill up quickly.

The second control measure that would really help would be spraying the outside of the building with VEGETABLES PLUS PERMETHRIN. This odorless treatment would intercept flies keeping them from the inside areas as well. This treatment would be needed every two weeks throughout the busy "fly" season.

Lastly, installing some VECTOR FLY TRAPS inside the establishment will help remove those that do get inside. These lighted traps will not solve problems by themselves; the real key is getting the flies before they get inside. But if you minimize the breeding grounds (wet rags and other organic areas) as well as employ an "intercepting" battle plan by getting them before they enter, you can no doubt greatly reduce the flies your customers will be experiencing when they come to visit.

Fly Control Article:  http://www.bugspray.net/directions/fly_control_treatments_prevention.pdf

Fly Bag Traps:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page78.html

Veg Plus Perm:  http://www.bugspray.com/item/vegetables_plus_permethrin.html

Vector Fly Traps: http://www.bugspray.com/item/823154.html

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Hello, i live in Cincinnati Ohio, my house was built in 1890 we have those nasty camel cave crickets, can you please help me with them…I'm scared of them Thanks.

If you review our online CAVE CRICKET CONTROL ARTICLE, you'll see all your options nicely laid outlined based on the kind of house you have and where you're seeing them. For starters, you'll probably need some CRICKET TRAPS in the living areas where you see them. But as our article explains, getting to the root of the problem is what will provide long term control. For that you'll most likely need the NIBAN BAIT.

Read the article and if you have further questions on how to proceed, give us a call toll free at 1-800-877-7290. Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Cave Cricket Control:  http://www.bugspray.com/articles98/camelcrickets.html

Cricket Traps:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page1286.html

Niban Bait:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page424.html

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I am catching shrews in my house in glue traps. I can't find their point of entry, I sealed up the holes I could see, but one year later, i have probably killed about 30. Is there anything at all I can do to deter them? spray?…your sprays say to put them at point of entry, What to do if I can't find it?…do they climb up steel siding?.. they are driving me crazy. any ideas? thanks

As explained in our SHREW CONTROL ARTICLE, shrews are quite cunning and adapt well to their local environment. More importantly, once a few have been active in any given area for awhile, their scent will attract others for years to come. In other words, what you're experiencing is to be expected. And I'm pretty sure as long as this scent is in place, more will come around so don't look for it to stop anytime soon.

So what can you do to stop them? Well, sealing entry holes won't do it. As cited above, shrews are quite adaptive so even if you did find their route of entry and closed up any noticeable holes, there are simply too many ways into any home for this to be a successful strategy in of itself. Remember too the reason they keep coming around is because of the scent previous shrews have left and not because they've learned a way to get in. In other words, it's the shrew scent that's causing them to enter and not the holes or entry points you seem worried about. Armed with this information, you can then go about attempting to take away that which is luring them inside: the old odor.

Now if you were somehow able to isolate all the scent locations and neutralize them with NNZ, you would no doubt cut down the vast majority of shrews coming inside. But for obvious reasons, this would be a tough thing to do since they could have been most anywhere in the house. So if you know of any areas inside the home where they've been, treat them with NNZ. But treating the outside foundation, around the entire home, is really where it matter and in my estimation, where it needs to be applied. I would spray a good 4-5 feet up the house all the way around focusing on the ground adjacent to the side of the home where most of the activity has been. I'd also pull back any ground cover, mulch, pine straw, wood chips or anything else that's tight to the foundation. Organic material close to the house will almost always hide routes of entry so be sure there aren't any such areas around the home. I'd spray this area on the ground too, adjacent to where they've been most active inside, treating at least 2 feet of soil out and away from the home. This will help neutralize any scent in case there are tunnels down in the ground you're not able to see.

Lastly, I also recommend applying RED FOX URINE around the home. This will need to be place another 5-6 feet outside the ground treated with NNZ. The net result would be a circular treatment of NNZ around the home, basically on the foundation and some ground close to the house, and any areas in the home where you've either seen shrews or smell their presence. The Urine should then be applied in the same circular shape but outside and around the NNZ. This would make the urine a bigger circle which will serve as a repellent warding off any small animals that might come into your yard.

As long as you've done a good job of removing the shrews currently inside the home before you go about treating, there is no reason you can't repel any that come into your yard with the Fox Urine. But the key will be neutralizing the odor left by all the shrews that have been on and in your home the past year. Failure to get rid of the scent will almost certainly lead to some traversing through the urine because the chance of getting to where other shrews have been is sometimes so strong they won't quite till they get inside any structure that smells of shrew.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Shrew Control Article:  http://www.bugspray.com/article/shrews.html

NNZ:  http://www.bugspray.com/item/nnz.html

Red Fox Urine:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page1713.html

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Hi,
I'm from Brazil and I'm having a noise problem with the neighborhood dog. I visit you website and I found some product that use ultra sound.
However, most of you products ( item # 747772 and item # 747774) turn on by movement. By the way the dog is a kind of far away.
I wanna know if:
a) do you ship to Brazil?
b) do you have a product that use ultra sound repelent and i can turn it on pushing a button?
c) what is the range of this product?

Thanx,
Bruno

Actually, you are correct in thinking unit 747772 is battery operated so to save on batteries, it will only turn on when motion is detected. But unit 747774 can only be powered by the included AC power supply. For this reason it's a continuously running unit. That means if you hook it up to a an extension cord, you could easily turn it off and on it by plugging it in and out of the wall. The only problem I see here would be that unit 747774 is really just for inside use since it's not built in a weather protecting body or encasement. That means moisture and other outside variables will break it down.

For outside use, unit 747788 is best suited. Built to be used outside, it too can be run by batteries which will cause it to activate only when it senses motion. But this unit also comes with an AC converter which has a 50 foot line. When powered by this converter, unit 747788 will run continuously. Again, that means you can turn it on or off by plugging it into and out of the wall socket. This will allow you to power the unit remotely as needed.

The effective range of unit 747774 is 15-25 feet out; for unit 747788 it's 25-50 feet out.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Unit 747772:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page848.html#747772

Unit 747774:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page848.html#747774

Unit 747788:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page848.html#747788

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We have had these bugs in our home for a few years, not many, but enough to be annoying.
We live in northern IL.  Can we spray in the winter and have any effect on the population?  We see none inside but they seem to be in the aluminum siding and that would be impossible to seal up to find every crack they are accessing to get in the house.
What is a good plan to control them now?
Thanks, Steve

You could spray the CYPERMETHRIN listed in our BOXELDER BUG CONTROL ARTICLE. As long as they're active and it's warm enough outside, treating now would have an impact. But the best thing to do immediately would be to either dust with DELTAMETHRIN DUST up under the siding with a HAND DUSTER or use PT PHANTOM with it's crack and crevice straw.

In the long run the dust would be the best since treatments would last 3-6 months. The Phantom would be easier to apply but expect to use it monthly since treatments won't last as long. However, the Phantom is practically odorless so it could be used inside should the box elders start showing up in living spaces.

Ultimately you should really spray the outside of the home every fall to insure they don't live under the siding during the winter. And again, a good dusting at this time would keep them away for sure.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Cypermethrin:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/viper-cypermethrin

Box Elder Bug Control:  http://www.bugspray.com/articles98/boxelder.html

Deltamethrin Dust:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/dust/deltamethrin-dust

Hand Duster:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/dust/deltamethrin-dust

Phantom:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/aerosol/pt-phantom-17-5oz

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I have flying squirrel's in the attic of my mountain cabin. It is cap cod style so there is no attic access except for a small closet where the furnace is located. They do visit that location on occasion but not regularly. Will the use of the Night Flyer Trail Sent attract them to that space so as to be able to trap them? What cage would be recommended (822155, 822159, 822206) Would a sonic device poked up in the rafter space be more effective? (if so what is difference between 747774 & 747810?) thanks for the help.

As explained in our SQUIRREL CONTROL ARTICLE, it's vital for traps to be located where the flying squirrels are active. In the situation you explained above, I'm certain you will not successfully lure all the squirrels in your attic to one trap location. They just don't forage enough for this to happen. In fact there could be different "nests" or colonies in your attic. I've seen this many times; attics with multiple entry points will enable different colonies to access the same space. But since flying squirrels don't forage much once inside, these colonies can coexist without conflict. I point this out because this is one of the main reasons why exact trap placement or repeller placement is critical when needing to remove, trap or repel flying squirrels. Many times your trap may catch 5-10 animals in one location and just 25 feet away there could be a whole other colony that won't be affected. For this reason it's imperative you focus on every place you hear activity. This approach will assure you get all that have entered and made your attic their home.

With that being said, I don't think live trapping would be a good choice for your situation. What I do think would work is if you're somehow able to locate 2-4 of either the 747774 or 747810 Ultra Sound Repellers. Either of these units will work on flying squirrels. Since flying squirrels so sensitive to the sound, they'll stay away from where they hear it. So again, the key for you will be proper placement. As our article explains, ultra sound doesn't do a good job "going around bends" or through anything. That means you'll need to have the sound directed at the target site without being blocked. So unless your attic is fairly wide open, this could be tough to achieve with only one access point.

If you cannot get wide coverage from the one entry point you described above, you may opt for one of two other options. First, making small access points into which either unit can be inserted would most definitely work. This would no doubt mean some extra installation work and effort but it could make the Ultra Sound Units very effective and in the long run prove to the easiest way to get a decent installation with adequate coverage. Second, you might try going for an outside installation. If the entry points to the attic are just under the eaves or roof overhangs, you might be able to mount either unit tight to the overhang, directly underneath it, so they won't get rained upon. Even though these two units aren't designed to be used outside in the open, they can be set up outside where they'll be protected. This would also allow you to mount them all the way around the house thus protecting all entry points without having to do much in the way of closure. Which leads me to explain the difference between the two units.

Both the 747774 and the 747810 will repel flying squirrels. The big difference is that the 747810 has a wider khz range so it can affect more animals. It's also 15-25% stronger. That means it has a larger area it can protect which may be important if you find you're needing to get around a lot of wood or other parts of the home that might be blocking the path of the sound. For outside use, this wouldn't be nearly as important. But if there is a lot of supporting 2×4's or other timber up in the attic that might deflect the sound being projected and you want to try the inside installation, the 747810 would be the better choice to install.

Lastly, it would be wise to do some closure next spring or summer when most flying squirrels will leave structures and live outside. Simply closing all the gaps and seams leading inside the attic will go a long way at keeping these guys out and since you know where they're getting in, you should be able to isolate just where you need to seal and do some closure. Remember, you could install some of the SCREENING or NETTING alone since flying squirrels won't chew through it. These options are very effective for bats but work on the delicate flying squirrels as well. These little guys just don't like the obstruction and will stay off it where encountered. Mind you these options won't work for rats or regular gray tree squirrels but they do for flying squirrels. But in the end and definitely my choice for doing the job right, using the repellent PUR FOAM and COPPER WOOL would be the best way to go.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Flying Squirrel Control:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page359.html

747774 Ultra Sound:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page369.html#747774

747810 Ultra Sound:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page369.html#747810

Bat Screening:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page212.html

Bat Netting:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page1705.html

Pur Foam:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page2133.html

Copper Wool:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page1135.html

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Hi. I own a log home. The outside eaves are insulated and sealed off from the inside by foam insulation. I have chipmunks in those eaves of my house. I have seen them and tried to close off their entrances but to no avail. They are active even now since I see fiberglass insulation on my deck. Which of your products would you recommend? Help!!! Thom

Can you confirm that in fact what you have are chipmunks and not flying squirrels? I ask because in over 30 years of responding to this kind of complaint, it always turns out to be flying squirrels in the attic and not chipmunks. In general, chipmunks are ground dwellers and live in burrows. Active when it's warm, they'll usually go dormant during the winter. And yes, they can get inside the home, but when they do it's usually in the lower parts and not the attic.

However, flying squirrels love attics, are active at night and will be a real problem in the winter when it's cold out. They'll commonly invade homes when fall turns to winter and it's then people learn about these cute, tiny creatures which can make so much noise in the attic! At this time I suggest you check out our chipmunk and flying squirrel articles for more details about each animal. These articles do a great job of explaining all you'll need to know about each and I'm sure we have a solution that you can employ regardless of which it turns out to be. More importantly, these articles have video's on both animals so you can see exactly what they look like. This will insure you pick the right control option.

Chipmunk Article:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page398.html

Flying Squirrel Article:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page359.html

After reviewing these articles you should be able to know for sure which of the two you have and at that time decide whether you want to try to take care of the problem yourself or if you should hire a professional. And if you need further assistance, please give us a call toll free at 1-800-877-7290.

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I have a cat that attacks birds at my bird feeder on my deck.  After reviewing your website, it appears that product 747788 would be the best one to consider.  Please let me know if you agree.

That said, I foster dogs for Guide Dogs for the Blind.  Is it possible to have a frequency that would annoy cats (and squirrels would be a bonus) but not bother dogs?  I can always turn it off when the door to the deck is open, so this is not insurmountable provided that the product eliminates the cat from the feeders.

Thanks.

Actually, the best unit for the job would be the CAT STOPPER. It focuses in on a frequency cats don't like (21-25 khz) but this frequency will have little to no effect on any other animal. The YARD GUARD (Item # 747788) would be my second choice; it covers a larger band of sound (15-25 khz) and therefore should be considered if you have other animals you'd like to repel. Unfortunately neither will affect squirrels much; for this you'd need one of the units listed in our squirrel section. But no doubt a Cat Stop strategically placed to cover the area where the cat likes to approach, sit or attack birds either on or around the deck should keep them away.

As for the impact this unit would have on people or pets; no need for concern. Ultra Sound can be at worse irritating to people and animals; it doesn't actually do anything bad when used in the decibel range our units generate. the sounds will at worse be irritable to the target animals ears and when they encounter such sounds, most animals will merely move away. Cats are no doubt more affected by them compared to other animals which is why these units make such a great tool when one wants to repel a nuisance cat. Dogs tend to be affected by them when they are foraging onto land they don't know or commonly occupy. Your pets would probably be indifferent to the sound once they heard it several times but in general, if you're able to keep the units off when your pets are in the area that would be preferred.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Cat Stopper:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page2163.html

Yard Gard:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page851.html#747788

Squirrel Control Products:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page358.html

Cat Control Products:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page458.html

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2

Hello, Jonathan:

I'm not sure whether  our problem is shrews.  During late summer I noticed a couple of "trails" which were about 3/4 inch wide.  The grass was gone.  These are not burrows.  They were interesting, but didn't seem to be a major problem.  With the melting of snow there are now many of these "trails".  Around our foundations are plantings–annual, perennials and small shrubs.  We have had a problem with snails.  I gave up on trying to eradicate the snails and dug up the hostas.  The "trails" are in the grass stretching 10, 20 and up to 30 feet.  Our home is on a crawl space.

Does this sound like shrews to you?

Thanks.

What you're describing sounds a lot more like MOLES. In fact, moles are quite active late fall and throughout winter. This is because many of their "preferred" food targets become readily available just under the top soil. Additionally, the coming of cold weather causes them to feed more aggressively and even as fall turns to winter and the snow begins to fall, moles won't give up their hunt for a good meal. For this reason it's common to find tunnels magically appearing as snow melts away from the lawn and garden throughout winter.

We also know moles love slugs and grubs. Both of these will make themselves readily available throughout the cold months. And though slugs forage above ground they like to settle down into the top soil when resting. Grubs typically feed up high throughout the winter as our GRUB CONTROL ARTICLE explains and for this reason will many times become the main attraction in any yard for moles. In these cases the classic sign is tunneling throughout – especially in the fall right on into winter.

At this point I'd bet what you've got is moles and not shrews. Remember, shrews will move into vacant mole and vole tunnels but in general, they don't spend their time creating the trails you describe. For this reason and based on the time of year you're seeing all the activity, it sounds like you've got moles.

At this time I recommend a treatment of the MERIT LAWN GRANULES to the turf. This would not doubt begin to reduce the local insect population which in the long run is the best way to get rid of either shrews or moles. Of course you can also use any of the Mole or Shrew control options listed in their respective articles but in general the best way to get rid of either is to get rid of the food they're seeking.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Mole Control:  http://www.bugspray.com/articles98/moles.html

Grub Control:  http://www.bugspray.com/article/grubs.html

Merit Lawn Granules:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page1547.html

Shrew Control:  http://www.bugspray.com/article/shrews.html

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1

Good afternoon:

I have white fly infestation and need to deal with this. I found your article on white fly control very informative and believe that you have an answer.

We live in Tucson, Arizona and our grape vines get hit every year. The grape vines are on trellises around the house at about 9'-0 above ground. Total plan area is approx 1600 sq feet (150' x 6' on the north side – 50' x 12' on the east side and 6' x 15' on the south side). Access for spraying from below and above is no problem.
Best for us is to use chemicals with a hose spray dispenser unit. So subject to your confirmation that I have followed your advice correctly, we want to order from you:

1 – Hose spray nozzle – with fine spray adjustment. I could not be sure which of your cheaper spray units would deliver the fine spray that you reccomend in your article.
1 – Permethrin or Bifen unit – sufficient quantities to repeat spraying 3 times this year? Is this sufficient for the year, in case of another attack on vines or other plants.
1 – Spreader Sticker unit – sufficient to match Permethrin/Bifen quantity above.
1 – Nylar unit – sufficient to match Permethrin/Bifen quantity above.

Any further advice that you can think of will be appreciated and once again, thank you for a very informative article on white fly control.

On hearing back from you, we will place the order – can you advise on shipping cost and timing?

Thank you

A.H. – Arizona

Thank you so much for your comments on our information. We have in fact spent a lot of time finding out just what products work on this pest and at this point, the actives you're listing (from our article) are as good as it gets. I'll attempt to answer your questions below but it might be easier if you call for further clarification as trying to cover everything in e-mail is sometimes tough but I will try.
1) It's hard for me to judge how many gallons you'll use each application but based on the square footage, I'm thinking 2-3. This will factor in when it comes to chemical use along with the sprayer you use. And since you indicated you'd like a hose end sprayer, the two best suited units would be either of these:

Hose End Sprayer:  http://www.bugspray.com/item/quart_dial-a-mix_sprayer.html

I prefer the following unit:

Professional Hose End http://www.bugspray.com/item/gilmour_professional_hose_end_sprayer.html

2) Since you're treating grape vines, you should stick with an active that's okay for fruit crops. This would be the Veg Plus Permethrin:

Vegetables Plus Permethrin:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page1260.html

Plan on using 4-6 oz per application (it mixes at the rate of 2 oz per gallon of water). As indicated above, you'll be using some 2-3 gallons per treatment. And though you're thinking you'll only need to treat 3 times per year; if the problem is persistent it could easily turn into 5-8 treatments so take this into consideration. Our concentrates won't go bad for at least 5 years so if you get the large size, it will keep fine.

3) Get an equal size of Spreader Sticker to match the Permethrin. So if you get the quart of Veg Plus, get a quart of SPREADER STICKER and use it at the rate of 2 oz per gallon as well.

4) Get the pint of NYLAR. This will be used at the rate of 1 oz per gallon of water.

If you get the Professional Hose End listed above, it can be set at 10 tablespoons per gallon which is the max setting. This would be the rate you'll need (2 oz of perm, 2 oz of Spreader Sticker and 1 oz of Nylar equals 5 oz per gallon which is 10 tablespoons per gallon). I'd add enough for two gallons per treatment and try to use up everything you add to the sprayer. When done spraying, be sure to rinse it out well so it won't clog when stored away. I like to use it with nothing but clear water when I'm done doing an application to get it good and clean through and through.
Lastly, when you add all the above listed items to your shopping cart the shipping will be calculated before you check out so you'll see exactly what it will cost.
I hope this helps! Good luck with you treatments and remember we're just a toll free call away if you have any questions.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

White Fly Control:  http://www.bugspray.com/article/whiteflies.html

Hose End Sprayers:  http://www.gotosprayer.com/sprayers/hose-end-sprayers

Permethrin:  http://www.bugspray.com/item/vegetables_plus_permethrin.html

Spreader Sticker:  http://www.bugspray.com/item/spreader_sticker.html

Nylar:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page1263.html

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Good Morning,

I recently purchased a home with an inground pool and a Koi pond RIGHT next to a Big Palm tree.

Let me descibe to you what happened-I was sitting outside one evening with some friends, enjoying a nice cognac and a smoke; and I heard this Plop Plop Plop noise. I looked around and realized water bugs (big nasty water bugs) were falling/flying/gliding out of the tree.  Please, please tell me how I can control this without cutting down the tree (though I will if that's what it takes). I've attached a picture so you can have a better idea of what I am talking about.

I currently work in Iraq and I only go home for a week every 4 months, but I really want to enjoy my pool and deck when I am there and I am seriously cringing at the thought of sitting outside my own home.

Can you give me any ideas on how to get rid of these? One flew on my neck and I think I may suffer more PTSD from that than working out here in Iraq.  LOL

Thanks for any and all assistance you can provide.

If you read through our WATER BUG CONTROL ARTICLE, you'll see mention of the concentrate SUSPEND. It's okay to use around the pond and pool and I recommend treating the lower lying plants and turf with it for starters. This will help control any that are landing on the ground and foraging. You might be able to get even more if they're using the palm tree trunk to go up and down from where they're roosting. By spraying the bark of the tree, they'll pick up lethal amounts from the treatment as they traverse over treatment.

Since you didn't mention where they seem to be going, I also recommend watching them to see what it is they are targeting in the yard for food. In all likelihood there is something close by they are feeding upon. It could be debris around the koi pond or maybe something that's falling off another nearby tree. But if you do notice or know of something they're targeting, I recommend not spraying it but instead applying some MAXFORCE GRANULES to the area. Maxforce will be readily consumed by these guys and after feeding, they'll die within 2-3 days.

Now you could opt to go with nothing but the Maxforce in case you're unsure about where to spray or if you're concerned about contaminating the koi pond water with the Suspend. In general if you leave a 10 foot area of ground around the pond unsprayed, there would be little to no risk of any active reaching the water and causing any trouble to the fish. But to avoid this altogether, the Maxforce would be the way to go. It wouldn't pose any threat when used properly and will only affect roaches, ants and crickets. Just remember it will take longer to have an impact compared to the spray.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Water Bug Control Article:  http://www.bugspray.com/article/largeroaches.html

Suspend:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page280.html

Maxforce Granules:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page278.html

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I have a small garter snake about 18 inches and pencil thin in my house  – will this trap keep him in? Item 822339.

Our SMALL SNAKE TRAP would be fine for any snake 2 feet or less in length.

Snake Traps:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page100.html

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