I have a large shed and is discovered by bats on occasion. I'm thinking on getting one of your bat houses because I don't want them gone. I just want them off my shed. How do I get them to stop landing in my shed and start landing in the bat house?
Also, should the bat house be placed under the overhang?
Should it be in the shade?
As described in our BAT CONTROL ARTICLE, trying to get bats to move from one roost location to another close can be tricky. But based on where they're active right now, I think you'll be able to have some success if you employ some of the BAT NETTING or BAT SCREENING featured in our article. Before you set out either, you'll need to install one of our BAT HOUSES if you want to keep them around so here's how to proceed.
You will need to get the Bat House installed first and ideally this would actually be on the shed and in direct sunlight. Our BAT HOUSE PLACEMENT GUIDE talks about all the fine details needed to insure you get good bat house results and no doubt direct sunlight is generally preferred over the shade.
Once in place, you should then employ one of the screening options mentioned above. If done right, you should be able to force the bats off the shed and direct them to the bat house. One other thing; be sure to smear at least one interior side of the newly installed bat house with some of the guano you no doubt have laying around. Bat droppings contain valuable scents and odors used to identify colonies. By scenting the house with their odors, they'll more readily move in.
Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:
Bat Control Article: http://www.bugspray.com/articles98/bats.html
Bat Netting: http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page1705.html
Bat Screening: http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page212.html
Bat Houses: http://www.bugspray.com/#bat%20houses
Bat House Placement: http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/bats/bat7.html
Filed under bats by 
Is Delta dust toxic to cats? Do I have to keep them out of the areas/rooms in which I use it?
Thanks.
In general, you'd want to keep pets and children out of the rooms being treated when they're being treated. This applies to our aerosol, dust and liquid products. All general precautions are covered in our SAFETY VIDEO'S and I suggest you review the ones that pertain to whatever product type you decide on using. But as stated above, you only need to keep the cats out of the way when treating. Once applied and allowed to settle, DELTAMETHRIN DUST won't pose a risk or hazard if it was applied properly.
Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:
Safety Video's: http://www.bugspray.net/video/product-safety-first
Deltamethrin Dust: http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page803.html
Filed under cat safety by
I was reading your page and had a few questions. I just purchased a house and had noticed some spider krickets under the house during the walk around. I know that wasn’t a big deal but then I started to noticed them in the garage. It isn’t a lot of them but my kids don’t like them. Just in the last couple of days I have seen a few in the house. Now I just want to get rid of them. What can I do?
If you read through our CAMEL BACK CRICKET article, you'll see this pest seeks dark and protected areas for nesting. If allowed to live around the outside perimeter of the home, some will no doubt breach the structure and end up in basements, crawl spaces or the garage. Though these locations will conceal the real number that might be occupying the space, some will emerge from time to time and for now that's what it sounds like you're seeing. In fact we mostly see this happen in the winter as the crickets seek the warmer temps of the living spaces in the home.
Since you didn't mention if you have an unfinished basement, finished basement or crawl space, I'm not sure if either of these will factor in to your control program. But if you have "non living" spaces like a crawl or other hidden space, treating with DELTAMETHRIN DUST would no doubt provide the fastest results and in the long run, prove to be the best option. If you have a finished basement, spider crickets will commonly take refuge in the wall space alongside foundation walls. If you have such a space, baiting with NIBAN FG and setting out some CRICKET TRAPS is suggested. This can also be done anywhere upstairs if you've seen them there too.
Lastly, spraying the outside of the home with some ESFENVALERATE on a regular basis is what really needs to be done so they don't come back. You should also treat the garage with this spray when doing your treatments. As stated above, the outside perimeter of the home and the garage are two spots where you can really lay down a protective barrier that in the end will keep all pests out of the home.
Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:
Camelback Cricket Control: http://www.bugspray.com/articles98/camelcrickets.html
Deltamethrin Dust: http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page427.html
Niban FG: http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page424.html
Cricket Traps: http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page1286.html
Esfenvalerate: http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page422.html
Filed under Blog by
I have live trapped two small mouse sized Moles I thought. They have no eyes that I could see and look like mice aside from that. I had Moles in my garage last summer which we thought we got rid of but now I just don't know what to do since they are in our home. Help!!
I have seen where moles can end up inside homes. Though not common, it does happen. In the cases where I've seen this the common thread has been an abundant amount of activity was known to exist in the yard. Another commonality was most of the homes were of slab construction and the problem was most active in the winter. I believe this happens because moles are actually quite active in the winter and in yards where they're finding food, the warm soil around the home seems to be where most food can still be found. So as they narrow the area they're using to forage, more and more will be active adjacent to the home.
Additionally, moles can readily forage down and under a slab constructed house. Once under the slab, they're likely to forage most anywhere a termite would go and that means the same points of entry might be used by these wandering moles. Common locations would include bath tub traps, water pipe placements and electrical conduit routes. I've also seen the use of in ground air ducts and drain lines; mostly they use the small holes around these pipes where they poke through the slab and in fact don't enter inside the duct or drain line but this shouldn't be ruled out.
I have also seen where the homeowner will commonly confuse moles with shrews or voles. In fact, both shrews and voles are more likely to enter the home and neither should be ruled out. But based on the limited amount of information you provided, it would be hard for me to suggest a plan of controlling the activity without some questions. To make this process easier, I suggest you give our office a call at 1-800-877-7290. At that time we should be able to get more information and offer up some way to initiate a plan of defense.
Here are direct links to the information listed above:
Mole Control Article: http://www.bugspray.com/articles98/moles.html
Vole Control Article: http://www.bugspray.com/article/voles.html
Shrew Control Article: http://www.bugspray.com/article/shrews.html
Filed under how to control by
I have several plants and i don't have a lot of white flies but i do have some. I have read your information on this matter and i would like to know some more. I have sprayed my plants with a insecticide soap for white flies but i also have seen them on top of my loose soil in the plants. What do you suggest for this. I have also looked at my plants and cleaned the on both the sides of the leaves. Please let me know what i have to do to get more control of these pest. The plants are not infested but i do have some. I wait for you response. Thank you.
It sounds like you are almost there. Treating your plants with INSECTICIDAL SOAP will no doubt kill most that are hatched and active. And it sounds like you are taking care to get all sides of the plant. But remember this product does not provide any residual action. That means any stages you miss when spraying will continue to thrive and that's probably what you're seeing.
To prevent this from happening, I suggest you go to another organic option we have listed as MULTI PURPOSE INSECT KILLER. This active will do a better job because it will remain active for a day or two.
I also suggest you spray the top soil directly – even if you don't see any white flies when during the time you treat – because they will sometimes hide in the soil and be easy to miss. Multi Purpose Spray won't hurt the plant or soil and it's fine to use in the manner.
Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:
Insecticidal Soap: http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/concentrates/insecticidal-soap
Multi Purpose Insect Killer: http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/concentrates/multi-purpose-insect-killer-24-oz
White Fly Control: http://www.bugspray.com/article/whiteflies.html
Filed under how to treat by
oooo GOD.. I hate HATE these critters!!! They really 'see' well too!!
Tell me.. if you know.. what does that odor they emit smell like? A few times I smelled something like some sort of moth ball.. is it like that at all?
Thanks!
Annette
I can't say I've had anyone describe the odor to be like moth balls but most people seem to think stink bugs smell like skunk or something decaying or even dead. Others have said the odor is like similar to cabbage, rutabagas and even some spices like cilantro. Remember, smell is a personal thing and will most certainly vary from person to person. Also, there are a few different species of stink bugs here in the US which could mean different odors. But the one common thread is that most everyone seems to think the smell is bad.
Stink Bug Control Article: http://www.bugspray.com/article/stinkbug.html
Filed under stinkbug smell by
Hello,
I live overseas, in Thailand, and I've got a bug problem (go figure!). I think our apartment has an infestation of either drugstore beetles or cigarette beetles. We've put all the foodstuffs in glass jars, vacuumed, etc…but we still have lots of them flying around. I would like to order some of your pheremone traps – but I have a couple questions:
1) Will you/can you ship by Priority Mail to an APO address?
2) If I'm not sure which type of beetle we've got (I don't have a microscope to check the wings or antennae), is there ONE trap I can buy, or do I need two?
Thanks very much,
M.G.
First, we can and do ship to APO addresses all the time so whichever you choose to get we can send. Second, based on the fact you're not sure which beetle you have, I'd recommend the XLURE TRAP. It's easy to deploy, works on a wide range of panty pests including both drugstore and cigarette beetles and durable for shipping. It can actually work on a wide range of insects and based on where you're currently living, I think this is a big "plus".
Here is a direct link to this trap:
Filed under beetle traps by
I need to know what otters eat to go in your traps. Also how do I know what size trap to buy for otters in Spartanburg county of South Carolina. I believe the otters have eaten many fish from the lake. I hope there is a trapping or hunting season on them. These otters are black.
If you review our OTTER CONTROL ARTICLE, you'll learn there are several trap options that can be used. The most common we sell is the first or second one listed on our OTTER TRAPS page. Also in our article you'll see we have both OTTER LURE and SALMON PASTE. Since they love fish, either bait will do a good job of luring them inside.
We also recommend checking with the state department of natural resources to see when any animal is in season so you can do your trapping during the proper time of year.
Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:
Otter Control Article: http://www.bugspray.com/article/otter_control.html
Otter Traps: http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/traps/otter_traps.html
Otter Lure: http://www.bugspray.com/item/otter_lure.html
Salmon Paste: http://www.bugspray.com/item/salmon_paste.html
Filed under best by
Hi,
I would like to know an organic alternative to eradicating brown beetle in the lawn.
There are a lot of beetles that like to chew grass, live in the turf and use these areas for egg laying. In many cases their young will do more damage than the adult stage so we've learned that the combination of ECO GRANULES and GRUB KILLER RTS is a good organic option that works on most every beetle. The Granules should be spread first and applied every two months when the targeted beetles are active. These are slow acting and take some water to activate. Over the course of 1-2 months they'll dissipate down into the soil working on grubs and other pests which want to nest just under the dirt. But because this product is slow acting, you'll need to spray some Grub Killer over the top for quick results.
But the good news is Grub Killer can be used as needed and initially you may have to use it every 2-4 weeks if you have a persistent problem or if the local community has some kind of an outbreak of the targeted pest. Since it's approved for organic gardening, the Grub Killer can be used as often as 2-3 times a week. It comes with it's own "ready to spray" jug so you only need to hook it up to your garden hose and you're ready to go to work.
Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:
ECO Granules: http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/granules/eco-exempt-granules
Grub Killer RTS: http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/concentrates/grub-killer-rts
Filed under organic by
I read your internet article on gnats. We live in Indianapolis, IN. Within the last month we have an infestation of gnats. They don't seem to bite. Can you help suggest how we can get rid of them?
Many Thanks, G.H.
If you read through our GNAT CONTROL ARTICLE, you'll see this pest is commonly a problem out in the yard. But as fall turns to winter, many home owners will find them active inside the home. To make the problem more difficult to treat, there is a wide range of gnats which will thrive all winter inside the average home so it can sometimes be frustrating trying to get rid of the active adults and solve the problem. Fortunately we've narrowed it down to a few key locations you should focus on if you have any in your home.
One of the most common sites for gnats during the winter is the soil of any house plants. Here they'll land to lay eggs and keep their cycle current. But don't expect to see any hanging around your plants; they'll rarely go there spending 99.9% of their time out and about in the home. But when it's time for females to lay eggs, potted plants and the soil in the pots are one of the most common locations they'll seek.
So if you have potted plants in the home, start with them. The simplest treatment for them is to mix up some VEGETABLES PLUS PERMETHRIN and drench the soil of the plant like you're watering the plant. This material is odorless and safe enough to spray on vegetables and fruit so it's fine for house plants. A good dose to the soil will permeate down and throughout the dirt rendering it impossible to be used for breeding gnats. If you prefer something organic, go with the MULTI PURPOSE INSECT KILLER. Treatments should be done the same way but since it's organic, it won't last nearly as long so repeat treatments weekly till you're sure all the gnats are gone.
The second spot gnats seem to love is the drain of any sink, shower or tub. This is especially true if the sink has a "sinkerator". Garbage disposals commonly harbor tons of waste and food in areas which are hard to clean. People routinely pour bleach, ammonia and other cleaning compounds down the sink thinking this will help but in most cases it's a waste of time and money. As food and other organic matter decompose, they tend to buildup as a slimy film along the walls of drain lines and other spaces. And it's these slimy buildups which gnats will use to both feed in and remain protected from cleansing agents. This makes it extra tough to control them in this area.
Fortunately GENTROL AEROSOL is labeled for use down drains. It's easy to use and can be sprayed directly into sink drains. Gentrol is a juvenile growth hormone and not an adulticide so it won't actually kill anything. But it will prevent the young fly larvae from developing so they won't be able to fully mature. That means they won't become reproducing adults and when it comes to breaking the cycle of gnats, this is critical. The only shortcoming of this treatment is you won't get the normal long term protection from Gentrol when used down the drain. Typically it can several months but down the drain it's life will be much shorter. The slime buildup will work against Gentrol just like everything else so you'll need to use it frequently to get the problem solved for good.
Now if you don't have either of the two locations mentioned above, you might have to do some detective work to isolate the gnat breeding ground. Keep in mind they like moisture and need some kind of organic matter. Besides sinks and potted plants, gnats will take advantage of kitty litter, garbage pails, recycling bins, leaky roofs, condensation around windows, leaky showers, washing machine drain lines, ac water pumps that are harboring water, sump pumps, septic tanks and other places where water or some kind of organic matter can remain warm during the winter months. Most of these areas can be treated with the Gentrol and over time, it alone can solve the problem. But if you have a lot of adults flying around, use AQUACIDE for quick control. Designed for flying insects, it's safe enough to use as needed but it won't target the gnats where they're nesting so in the long run, Aquacide generally won't solve problems. But it can help. The organic option for the adults is the FLYING INSECT KILLER which would be used the same way as the Aquacide.
Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:
Gnat Control Article: http://www.bugspray.com/article/gnats.html
Vegetables Plus Permethrin: http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page1815.html
Multi Purpose Insect Killer: http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/concentrates/multi-purpose-insect-killer-24-oz
Gentrol Aerosol: http://www.bugspray.com/item/gentrol_aerosol.html
Aquacide: http://www.bugspray.com/item/aquacide_aerosol.html
Flying Insect Killer: http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/aerosols/flying-insect-killer-14-oz
Filed under how to kill by
We’ve had a problem with fungus gnats inside and outside for the past month or so. At least seven of our neighbors have the same problem; I also noticed them in the windows at my dentist’s office and yesterday at a restaurant yesterday about 8 miles from here.
I’ve been told they’re coming from my houseplants, but I’ve checked the soil (I do not over water) and they’re not in the plants, however, I did purchase a granular product which I will place in the plant soil later today.
I occasionally see one flying through the air, but they’re mostly on windows. I’ve killed in excess of 50 in a few minutes at the large window in our living room; go back a little while later, and they’re there again. An exterminator told me they’d disappear after frost. We’ve had frost; it slows them down for a day (as does rainy weather), but then they come right back. I’m really afraid that we’ll have to learn to live with them.
We do live in mushroom country (Kennett Square, PA), but we’ve been here for 12 years and have never had them until this year. Is it possible we’ve had just right weather conditions? What do you think? Any thoughts you have would be really appreciated.
D.
PS: You’ve helped us with springtails about a year or so ago. Those are now under control. Thank you!
In fact FUNGUS GNATS routinely become a problem inside homes during the colder months of the year. No doubt houseplants are the most common location where they'll congregate and breed. This FUNGUS GNAT IN PLANTS problem discusses the best option for treating soil. I prefer this treatment over granules because it works immediately. And though you don't think the plants are the problem, it's imperative you start there and then branch out to other areas of the home if treating the plant soil doesn't solve the problem. Remember, you won't see any gnats in the plants because they're only active there when developing as young larvae. Once they hatch out as adults, they'll leave the plants and rarely if ever return. 99.9% of their life will be spent flying around the house and only females will forage to places where they can lay eggs like the soil and once done, they'll leave right away. So with this in mind, it's important to treat the soil because it's usually a hot spot but more important will be the spots where they're seen. And from what you're describing, this sounds likes it the windows.
So what can you do for the windows? Fortunately there are two treatment options you should consider that would no doubt help. The first would be to lightly apply a pre-mixed formulation of BIFEN IT to the window frame around the glass. This active is odorless, lasts a long time when used inside the home and is very active on flies and gnats. You'd only need to mix a small amount, like .1/4 to 1/2 oz per gallon of water, so there would very little product being actually used to treat all the areas where they are active. I'd recommend mixing up a tank full, maybe just 1/2 gallon to start, and then using a paint brush to lightly apply the mixture to the target sites. Bifen can actually be used on plants so you could treat the houseplants with any left over spray by drenching the soil. Also, Bifen is great outside on the landscape vegetation for most any pest including ants and mosquitoes.
The second option would be to install some AEROSOL MACHINES we have listed in this general GNAT POST. This approach would be easier to employ but more general and if you don't have enough machines distributed around the home, the flies will no doubt still be a problem.
In the end, trying to locate the source of the moisture would be ideal. Once dried or treated, you should be able to stop the cycle. I mostly see where houseplants are to blame but other areas that can easily cause a problem include garbage disposal systems found in most kitchen sinks, garbage bin areas, kitty litter, refrigerators, ice making machines, hot water heaters, air blowing systems and humidifiers or dehumidifiers. Remember, the fungus gnat will only remain in these areas as a larvae. Once an adult, it will only go back to such an area to lay eggs but will spend 99.9% of it's life away from nesting sites so don't think you need to see them on the plants for this to be their nest site because that won't happen.
Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:
Fungus Gnat Control: http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page306.html#fungus_flies
How to treat Fungus Gnats in plants: http://www.bugspray.net/fungus-gnats/fungus-gnat-problem-in-plants-or-house.html
Bifen It: http://www.bugspray.com/item/bifen_it.html
Aerosol Machines: http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page1813.html
How to treat Gnats in house: http://www.bugspray.net/gnats/gnat-problem-in-house.html
Filed under how to treat by
I live in south Carolina and was wondering if I should treat for Mole Crickets with Talstar now or do I need to wait for springs to control them? Please advise.
Thks.
Based on where you are, MOLE CRICKETS can remain active right through the winter months. No doubt there will be some cold nights and even a week or two where they might shut down and not be active. But any warm spell like we normally see in the southeast during most winters and they'll be up and out within a day. So if you're seeing daily temps rise into the 50's, there is no doubt treatments with TALSTAR or ORTHENE WP would help in controlling them. And since these two products will last 1 month or more, it's pretty much a sure thing that during that time period there will be a warm period where the crickets will be out and about. Additionally, young mole crickets are especially vulnerable so that any developing cycles in the treated area will almost certainly be affected no matter what so there is still plenty of benefit of doing some work now instead of letting them sit all winter long.
Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:
Mole Cricket Control: http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page1435.html
Talstar: http://www.bugspray.com/articles98/molecrickets.html
Orthene WP: http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page433.html
Filed under best time to treat by
I have ducks and chickens. The ducks have been in a fenced area near the back yard, the chickens in a coop,not too far away. For 5 years I have never had a problem with predators. Two days ago, while at work, two of my ducks escaped out of their area and were dragged away. The drag marks were found later that evening. I moved the other four ducks into the chicken coop and contained them. Today, I was at home, I opened the inside door to the coop so they can move around a bit. (there is a perimeter fence around the interior). I went outside tonight to feed and water, another one of my ducks was gone. I found the same drag and tracks the were found the other night. Whatever got in there, jumped the fence with the duck. There are no digging marks. What can I do to stop this. I believe that is a fox or coyote. The prints are small. How can I trap this thing? It knows where the food source is. What can I do to prevent this?
I want to catch this SOB.
If you read through our COYOTE AND FOX CONTROL article, you'll see there are several types of traps that can be employed to catch whatever animal you might have active stealing your ducks and chickens. But based on the pattern you described, I recommend getting the LT152248RD WITH BAIT CAGE. This trap can be set with a live animal for bait and whatever is coming around your coop won't be able to resist. I expect you'll quickly trap it and the problem will be resolved. The Trap page above has a great video that goes over all you need to do when making the set. But based on the aggressiveness displayed by this animal, I'm sure you'll get fast results once a good set is made.
Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:
Fox and Coyote Article: http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page1026.html
LT152248 Live Trap: http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page1034.html
Filed under how to catch by
Hi
I have ants in my pantry, what do you recommend to get rid of them that is not going to infest my food with chemicals?
Thanks, R.
If you read through our ANT CONTROL ARTICLE, you'll see we recommend two types of ant baits. One of the advantages of ant bait is that is very save to employ because you're not spraying anything. In fact we recommend no spraying in the home under normal conditions since spraying can lead to all kinds of problems as explained in our article. So what should you do in this sensitive area?
In the home a combination of ANT BAIT STATIONS and some ANT GEL should be set out where you see the ants. These products will be eagerly consumed by the ants, brought back the nest and no doubt shared with other members of the ant colony. In a 1-3 day time span, the bait will no doubt make it's way into the bulk of the nest and when it activates, all of them will die.
Ultimately some spraying should be done outside the home to keep new ants from coming inside so if you're not yet doing perimeter pest control around the exterior of the home, it would be a great time to get going. Since ants come in from outside, you most likely have some nests around the home. Failure to either treat them or install a border defense by spraying will ultimately allow some to enter and build nests inside. Apparently this has already happened so if you don't start reducing the numbers outside, expect more to return inside.
Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:
Ant Control Article: http://www.bugspray.com/article/ants.html
Ant Bait Stations: http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page2185.html
Filed under how to get rid of by
Hello,
Reading about various treatments on your website. Have many houseplants and a number of them Thrip infested. Have tried insecticidal soaps, Murphy's Oil Soap with orange oil. Also purchased blue sticky strips that are supposed to attract thrips. But assuming these are only effective on flying adults, need something(s) for the larvae and juveniles. Would Talstar and/or Cyfluthrin be effective?
Please advise.
Cordially,
D.B.
No doubt the TALSTAR listed in our THRIP CONTROL ARTICLE would provide a quick knockdown and long term residual of all stages. And you happen to be right on the mark with your thinking; the young larvae and juvenile stages aren't much affected by the traps or the organic options you listed. The main problem with the organics is that they don't provide any residual so any eggs hatching a day after you spray will thrive. But with Talstar this won't happen. Other benefits include that it's easy to mix, odorless and only a small amount of concentrate is needed per gallon of water so it goes a long way.
Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:
Talstar: http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page1315.html
Thrip Control Article: http://www.bugspray.com/article/thrips.html
Filed under how to control by
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